freezes even on bios

Custom pc / NONE
July 13, 2010 at 21:55:33
Specs: windows 7

I built a new computer and I have problem with it
it freezes every time (the mouse&keyboard also freeze and I can't do anything)
the freeze most happen if I left the computer for a
while or left the bios also freezing there....
also at playing games.

the temp is between 35 and 40 in idle.

thanks for help

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July 13, 2010 at 22:19:30
See response 2 in this - try cleaning the contacts on the ram modules, and making sure the modules are properly seated:

For a laptop, or netbook, you must remove both its main battery and AC adapter before you do that.

Ram that works in another mboard , or any ram you buy or have lying around, may not work properly, or sometimes, not at all - even if it physically fits and is the right overall type (e.g. SDram, DDR, DDR2, etc.; PCxxxx, xxx mhz) for your mboard.

See response 5 in this for some info about ram compatibilty, and some places where you can find out what will work in your mboard for sure:
Correction to that:

Some ram manufacturer's modules do not strictly adhere to the JEDEC standards that most mboards bioses use to determine ram settings.
In that case, the ram settings in the bios Setup that the bios has automatically chosen may not be correct.
Check the ram settings in your bios - the ram voltage, and the ram timing numbers - those should be the same as for the specs for the modules themselves. Often the ram voltage and timing numbers are printed on the label on the modules.

If the voltage setting or timings settings in the bios are different from the specs for the ram, change them in the bios. The timing numbers must be as close as you can get to the same, or slower timings (higher numbers = slower) - you won't notice the difference the slower settings make.

If you have a mix of different modules
- don't mix ram that different voltages are specified for - the bios will force the ram to use the lowest voltage, if "by spd" or similar is used (default settings) - ram that a higher voltage is specified for is more likely to not work properly in that situation.
- the bios settings must be those for the slowest timing settings of all the modules, or slower (higher numbers = slower).

If your ram passes a ram test, it's working fine, even if you can't determine whether it's listed for your mboard or system model anywhere

If you do a ram test, do that AFTER having tried cleaning the contacts and making sure the ram is seated properly - otherwise any errors found may be FALSE.
If the ram is incompatible with the chipset, or on more recent computers, incompatible with the memory controller built into the cpu, it will likely FAIL a ram test - that is NOT a true indication of the ram being faulty - there is probably nothing wrong with it, and it will pass the test if installed in a mboard it is compatible with.
NOTE: Sometimes incompatible modules (or matched pairs) won't work properly when more than one is installed, but will pass when by itself.

If you want to try a memory diagnostic utility that takes a lot less time to run a full pass than memtest86 does, this one is pretty good - Microsoft's
Windows Memory Diagnostic:
It can be toggled (press T) to do a standard or a more comprehensive set of tests - use the default 6 test one first - if it passes one pass of that, use the latter one. A few of the tests in the latter set are intentionally slower.
If you don't have a floppy drive, see the Quick Start Information at that Microsoft link for how to make a bootable CD of the Windows Memory Diagnostic (you need Windiag.iso - you don't necessarily need to use the program they mention to add it to the CD).

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July 14, 2010 at 07:33:32
So do you suggest the ram is the reason for all that??

because I tried different slot and nothing happen

and I have only one stick

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July 14, 2010 at 08:23:36
"So do you suggest the ram is the reason for all that??"

Yes, your symptoms point to that.

No software problem on the hard drive can cause the computer to freeze in the bios.
That must be caused by a hardware problem - the most likely candidate is a problem with the ram itself (it's compatibility) , or it's connection in it's slot(s), or an improper setting for it.

You should make sure all cards in mboard slots are all the way down in their slots - if any aren't, that could possible cause freezes too.
If you have a video card in a mboard slot, if it has a fan, make sure the fan and heatsink are clean, and that the fan spins when the computer is running. DO NOT use a vacuum to clean those.
If the fan is not spinning, or if the fan and heatsink are filthy, that can certainly cause freezes, if the video chipset gets too hot.

Make sure the ram voltage and timing settings in the bios Setup are the same as those specified for the module, or the ram timing numbers can be higher (NOT lower). Those are often on the label on the module.

If you're sure the ram module has clean contacts and is all the way down in it's slot, test the ram with a ram diagnostics program.

If the ram fails, you are probably trying to use ram that is not 100% compatible with using it in your mboard - that is a very common problem.

If the ram passes the diagnostics tests, the next most likely thing is your power supply is defective, or it does not have enough capacity.

Go into the bios Setup and make sure the readings for what is supposed to be +3.3v, +5v, and +12v are within 10% of their nominal values. Those readings show you directly the voltages being put out by the power supply, assuming the mboard is not damaged.

Your power supply must have at least the minimum capacity required to support a system with the graphics card you are using installed, or the max graphics card you might install in the future.
(Onboard video - video built into the mboard - IS NOT A CARD ! )
If that info is not in the ad for the video card, you can go to the video card maker's web site and look up the specs for the model - often under system requirements - the minimum PS wattage, and, more important, the minimum amperage the PS must supply at 12v is stated. If you don't find that, any card with the same video chipset including any letters after the model number has very similar minimum PS requirements. Some power supplies have two or more +12v ratings - in that case, add those ratings to determine the total +12v current capacity.

If you're a gamer...
In most if not all cases, the max capacity rating of the PS is an intermittent rating. It's recommended that you do not load your PS to any more that 80% of that rating if you are going to be using something that puts a constant load on it, such as playing a recent game for hours on end. In that case, you multiply the min capacity stated for the system with the particular video chipset on the card by 1.25 to find the min. capacity of the PS you should get.

It can be very hard to tell if a defective power supply is the cause of your problem if the voltages in the bios are OK. If you have another working system you can borrow a power supply from that has enough capacity, or if you can borrow one from someone else, try that with your system.

If it is failing or defective, or if it does not have enough capacity, you can usually replace it with any decent standard sized standard ATX PS .

Standard (PS/2) power supply size - 86mm high, 150mm wide, 140mm deep, or 3 3/8" h x 5 7/8" w x 5 1/2" d , or very close to that, though the depth can be more or less for some PSs.

Don't buy an el-cheapo PS.
See response 3 in this:

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