|"So do you suggest the ram is the reason for all that??"|
Yes, your symptoms point to that.
No software problem on the hard drive can cause the computer to freeze in the bios.
That must be caused by a hardware problem - the most likely candidate is a problem with the ram itself (it's compatibility) , or it's connection in it's slot(s), or an improper setting for it.
You should make sure all cards in mboard slots are all the way down in their slots - if any aren't, that could possible cause freezes too.
If you have a video card in a mboard slot, if it has a fan, make sure the fan and heatsink are clean, and that the fan spins when the computer is running. DO NOT use a vacuum to clean those.
If the fan is not spinning, or if the fan and heatsink are filthy, that can certainly cause freezes, if the video chipset gets too hot.
Make sure the ram voltage and timing settings in the bios Setup are the same as those specified for the module, or the ram timing numbers can be higher (NOT lower). Those are often on the label on the module.
If you're sure the ram module has clean contacts and is all the way down in it's slot, test the ram with a ram diagnostics program.
If the ram fails, you are probably trying to use ram that is not 100% compatible with using it in your mboard - that is a very common problem.
If the ram passes the diagnostics tests, the next most likely thing is your power supply is defective, or it does not have enough capacity.
Go into the bios Setup and make sure the readings for what is supposed to be +3.3v, +5v, and +12v are within 10% of their nominal values. Those readings show you directly the voltages being put out by the power supply, assuming the mboard is not damaged.
Your power supply must have at least the minimum capacity required to support a system with the graphics card you are using installed, or the max graphics card you might install in the future.
(Onboard video - video built into the mboard - IS NOT A CARD ! )
If that info is not in the ad for the video card, you can go to the video card maker's web site and look up the specs for the model - often under system requirements - the minimum PS wattage, and, more important, the minimum amperage the PS must supply at 12v is stated. If you don't find that, any card with the same video chipset including any letters after the model number has very similar minimum PS requirements. Some power supplies have two or more +12v ratings - in that case, add those ratings to determine the total +12v current capacity.
If you're a gamer...
In most if not all cases, the max capacity rating of the PS is an intermittent rating. It's recommended that you do not load your PS to any more that 80% of that rating if you are going to be using something that puts a constant load on it, such as playing a recent game for hours on end. In that case, you multiply the min capacity stated for the system with the particular video chipset on the card by 1.25 to find the min. capacity of the PS you should get.
It can be very hard to tell if a defective power supply is the cause of your problem if the voltages in the bios are OK. If you have another working system you can borrow a power supply from that has enough capacity, or if you can borrow one from someone else, try that with your system.
If it is failing or defective, or if it does not have enough capacity, you can usually replace it with any decent standard sized standard ATX PS .
Standard (PS/2) power supply size - 86mm high, 150mm wide, 140mm deep, or 3 3/8" h x 5 7/8" w x 5 1/2" d , or very close to that, though the depth can be more or less for some PSs.
Don't buy an el-cheapo PS.
See response 3 in this: