|You haven't answered some of the questions I asked. |
"I connect the fan to the chassis fan header on the motherboard. I just followed how it was connected to the HP."
Did you connect it to a 3 pin fan header on the mboard? How many of them are there? As I implied above, if you connect the case fan to one for PS (Power Supply) it will run full speed all the time because the mboard does not control it's speed.
"The reason I put a case fan in there is because I am installing a graphic card that I used on the HP, and the card gets quite hot after running for couple minutes. So I am assuming the fan would help but im not sure."
What video chipset does the video card have?
They always get hot, but if they're well designed they don't add much if any heat to the inside of the case - the power supply fan(s) usually easily get rid of the heated air they produce. .
You MAY need a power supply with more capacity!
Your power supply must have at least the minimum capacity required to support a system with the graphics card you are using installed, or the max graphics card you might install in the future.
(Onboard video - video built into the mboard - IS NOT A CARD!)
You can go to the video card maker's web site and look up the specs for the model - often under system requirements - the minimum PS wattage, and, more important, the minimum amperage the PS must supply at 12v is stated. If you don't find that, any card with the same video chipset including any letters after the model number has very similar minimum PS requirements.
Some power supplies have more than one +12v amperage rating - they have two - in that case you add the rated max amperages to determine the total +12v amperage rating.
If you needaPSwith more capacity, you can usually replace it with any decent standard sized standard ATX PS.
Standard (PS/2) power supply size - 86mm high, 150mm wide, 140mm deep, or 3 3/8" h x 5 7/8" w x 5 1/2" d , or very close to that, though the depth can be more or less for some PSs.
Don't buy an el-cheapo PS.
See response 3 in this:
"I went into the BIOS setup, and in the power option tab, there is a hardware monitor option, it lists *CPU Temperature, MB Temperature, CPU Fan Speed, VCORE Voltage, 3.3V, 5V, 12V, Smart Q-Fan Function* Should I change the settings on the CPU Fan Speed [RPM] or [Ignored]? or is it the other settings.."
Those are mostly the current readings being detected my sensors built into the mboard - you can't change those.
The SmartQ Function might be the one that controls the load on the cpu and the corresponding cpu fan speed - if so, if you enable it, when your the bios senses your system doesn't need the full power of the cpu, the load on the cpu is decreased, the cpu fan tends to spin slower.
I know your Asus system model, but I have no idea which Asus mboard it has in it.
The Asus mboard manuals always have info about the settings in the bios Setup in them. They also often explain what the special features of the mboard are - in there somewhere you should be able to find out whether the speed of the case fan is temp controlled - I've never seen that in bios Setup settings, but I don't see many bioses of recent mboards, so it's possible it's there.
The model number of the mboard should be printed in obvious larger characters on the mboard's surface, often between the slots. If you search for the manual for that model on the Asus web sites, you should be able to download the manual and take a look at it.
I always have trouble accessing the Asus web sites (pages load SLOWLY) and today that's a lot worse than usual.
"the a6000n died because I messed up the BIOS, i just followed the HP site steps and installed a BIOS to fix the vista sleep problems, but after I installed it, I got a Checksum error, my friend came and tried to fix it but he said the bios was flashed dead."
I could go on and on about how dumb it is to flash the bios when you don't need to, but too late now.
NEVER flash you bios unless you find specific info such as in the notes where you get the bios update that mentions it fixes the exact problem you're having! Almost always, flashing the bios WILL NOT fix the problem you're having!
It's NORMAL to get merely the "Cmos Checksum Error" or similar message after you have flashed the bios - you simply go into the bios Setup and load at least the date and time, and load bios defaults or optimized defaults if you have just flashed the bios (the flashing usually doesn't do that) , save bios settings, and the message won't appear after that.
If you a get "Cmos Checksum Error" or similar AND ALSO see something about the "Boot Block" , then you can probably try flashing the bios again, but you MUST do it by booting from a prepared floppy disk with the right files on it in a floppy drive connected to the mboard (that always works), or for more recent mboards you may be able to flash the bios by having the right files on a bootable USB flash drive (I don't know if that applies to the HP bios version but it applies to many recent Asus mboards with Asus bioses), or if you have the right files on a bootable CD (recent Asus mboard CDs will autoboot the computer and load a bios recovery program if they're in the drive while booting).
Most people don't have the knowledge to be able to recover from a flash that went wrong.
NOTE that you may see a message while booting when the monitor is connected to the onboard video, no video card is in a slot, but NOT when you connect a monitor to the video card in a slot.
If you see a message similar to "Cmos Checksum Error" AND
"Boot Block Bios loaded" or "Boot Block" anything, when you try booting the computer,
then your flash chip is probably not physically damaged, and you may be able to flash the bios again.
If you have or can borrow a floppy data cable and a floppy drive (and a floppy disk that has the right files on it) , you could attempt to flash the bios again.
You connect a floppy drive data cable to the floppy header on the mboard, and a floppy drive, the proper way, and a power connector to the floppy drive.
If you don't have those, or can't borrow those, they'll cost you less than $20 total when you buy them locally from places that have lots of computer parts, and they can come in handy in any case for any mboard that has a floppy data cable header (almost all desktop mboards have that including recent ones) for when you have a serious problem, even if the case doesn't have a bay for a floppy drive - cheap insurance.
Further info available from me, if you're interested..