|Tell us the make and model of your brand name system, or if you have a generic desktop system, the make and model of the mboard. |
The specific model of a brand name system is often shown on a label on the outside of the case somewhere, or it can often be determined by going to the brand name's web site and loading a program they have available, if Windows is still working, on the subject computer.
If it's a Dell computer...
Go here for how to find the Service tag "number":
Tell us what it is.
If it's a HP or Compaq computer.....
Scroll down a bit.
Look for the similar label on the outside of your computer.
Quote the specific model number - that's at the end of the first line.
Quote the Product number - that's on the third line.
The model, sometimes the make, of a mboard in a generic desktop system is usually printed on the mboard's surface in obvious larger characters, often between the slots.
The laser lens may be "dirty".
Try using a laser lens cleaning CD in the drive. If you don't have one you SHOULD have one. Most places that sell CDs or DVDs sell them, and even some "dollar" stores have them for a buck or two.
Or, if this is a laptop computer, eject the drive's tray and with no disk on the tray, wipe off the obvious laser lens with a tissue or a soft cloth.
If this is a desktop computer...
It is common to un-intentionally damage IDE data cables, especially while removing them - the 80 wire ones are more likely to be damaged. What usually happens is the cable is ripped at either edge and the wires there are either damaged or severed, often right at a connector or under it's cable clamp there, where it's hard to see - if a wire is severed but it's ends are touching, the connection is intermittent, rather than being reliable.
Another common thing is for the data cable to be separated from the connector contacts a bit after you have removed a cable - there should be no gap between the data cable and the connector - if there is press the cable against the connector to eliminate the gap.
80 wire data cables are also easily damaged at either edge if the cable is sharply creased at a fold in the cable.
Try another data cable if in doubt.
80 wire data cables must have the proper end connector connected to the mboard IDE header - usually that's blue, but in any case it's the one farther from the middle connector on a 3 connector data cable.
Check your SATA data cables. The connector on each end should "latch" into the socket on the drive and on the mboard, or on the drive controller card - it should not move when you merely brush your hand against it near the socket - if it does, mere vibration can cause a poor connection of it - use another SATA data cable that does "latch", or tape the connector in place.
(There is a slight projection or bump on one side of the outside of the connector that "latches" it into the socket - it's easily broken off or damaged)
The same thing applies for the SATA power connection.
The most common cause of CD drive death is the spindle motor has seized, or is spinning so slowly the circuit board on the CD drive, or Windows, "thinks" there is no cd.
To check for this, insert a CD in the drive, and note its position. Close drive. Try to access the drive. The led should turn on. Eject the cd after led has gone out - if the cd is still in the same place, the motor is seized.
Alternately, with computer on, insert a cd into the drive, noting its position - when the cd is inside the drive, the led should come on - give it a bit of time, then eject it - if the cd is still in the same place, the motor is seized.
If the CD has moved, but the computer still doesn't find it, it may be spinning too slowly. The only way you can check for this is to remove the CD drive, take the top cover off, then connect the drive and attempt to access the CD, and watch how fast the cd spins - if it takes a while to start spinning, and/or spins very slow, the motor will soon seize. You could also remove enough hardware above the cd spindle so you can attempt to spin the cd with your finger, place a cd on the spindle (be careful - there will be nothing to hold down the cd), attempt to access the CD, and gingerly try spinning the cd faster with your finger, then let go - it may then acheive its proper speed - it may then be recognized.
If your CD does not spin, or spins too slowly, it's time to get another CD drive. I have never seen a CDRom spindle motor that has ball bearings - they all seem to have sleeve bearings. You MAY be able to get it to run for a short while by removing or getting access to the motor and oiling it, but it is a waste of time - it will seize again (been there, done that - the oil improved the situation, but was not enough).