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Computer wouldn't boot up

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Original Message
Name: Menik
Date: January 30, 2007 at 19:45:20 Pacific
Subject: Computer wouldn't boot up
OS: Windows XP
CPU/Ram: 1.8/1GB
Model/Manufacturer: None
Comment:

Today I finally got the last piece to my upgrade to a 939 socket board. I got the Opteron 165 and I was going to install on EPOX 9NPA+SLI with Corsair 1GB ram, and a 6800GS video card and the PSU is a ANTEC Smartpower W400. Now I'm pretty certain that everything was plugged in. So when I came around to turning it on...it wouldn't. I had to unplug the cord in the back a few times to actually get it running. At first it would just run for like a second and then immediately turn off. So after that I took it out a few times and it worked. Got everything running nice, didn't reinstall Windows had old one on there and then restarted and then...it would never boot up.It would as I said earlier start for a few secs and turn off. I was using the same case as before that had my 754 MSI Keo3 board. I don't know what the problem could be, faulty PSU? I hope it's not a faulty Mobo. Someone please help.


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Response Number 1
Name: Tubesandwires
Date: January 30, 2007 at 20:24:47 Pacific
Subject: Computer wouldn't boot up
Reply: (edit)

Turn off the power to the case and make sure the connectors and ram and cards are fully seated - all the way down in their slots or on their pins.
On most newer mboards there must be a 3 pin hole female connector connected to the three pin cpu fan header on the mboard, because usually the default setting in the bios(you may not be able to turn the feature off), is such that if the bios doesn't detect xx rpm within a few seconds, the mboard will shut down to protect the cpu. Also, rarely, the rpm output of the cpu fan may not be what the monitoring chipset expects - there are several possible types of rpm output - you may have to use a cpu fan with a different output type. Or a low rpm fan may not be spinning fast enough to suit the monitoring chipset or bios rpm settings.
I got a new PS once that gave me problems when I first installed it like you describe -what finally worked is when I routed the wires in the bundle that goes into the main connector so that the wires were not bent as much close to the connector, the problem went away and has never recurred.

.....

When you install a hard drive that already has Windows 2000 or XP on it that was set up on another computer, if the difference in hardware is too great XP cannot cannot deal with the change and will not boot - it often hangs with a blinking cursor in the corner of the scrren shortly after Windows starts to load.
In that case you need to run an XP Repair Setup.
An XP Repair Setup will not harm your existing Windows installation, but it can only fix things Windows detects as wrong, and/or replace corrupted or missing Windows files that are on your original XP CD.
In the case of drastically changed hardware, it will set Windows to the new hardware situation.

You will need a Windows CD of the same version as the one of your Windows installation, and the Product Key, preferably the one that was used to install it, but it can be one for the same version as the one of your Windows installation.

If you are booting a SATA hard drive there are other things you need to be aware of and do before doing this or any Windows Setup..

how to do an XP Repair Setup, step by step:
http://www.windowsreinstall.com/win...

Install all the drivers for the new mboard after Setup has finished so that Windows has all the proper information about the mboard.

If your Windows CD did not have SP1 or SP2 included, and you updated to SP1 or SP2, you will have to install that again to get SP1 or SP2 working properly again.
SP1 or later is required for USB 2.0 and hard drives larger than 137gb (manufacturer's size; 128gb in Windows and most bioses)


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Response Number 2
Name: Menik
Date: January 30, 2007 at 20:41:06 Pacific
Subject: Computer wouldn't boot up
Reply: (edit)

Could you post a picture :) that would be very helpful, and my wires were a bit messy and all tangled and that could have been it.


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Response Number 3
Name: Tubesandwires
Date: January 30, 2007 at 20:52:12 Pacific
Subject: Computer wouldn't boot up
Reply: (edit)

If you have dual channel ram (matched pairs of ram that you can buy only in a set), make certain that it is installed in the proper slots - see your mboard manual.

If the computer still won't boot, it's quite possible you installed ram that is not compatible with the mboard - in the worst cases the mboard will not boot, and may not even beep.
Try this.
Remove the power to the case, remove all the ram.
Restore the power to the case, try booting.
If there is nothing else wrong, the mboard will beep in a pattern that indicates no ram is installed. E.g. many Award bioses will beep for about a second, silence for about a second, beep for about a second, etc. continuously.

Of course, the case speaker must be plugged into the proper place on the mboard, or the mboard must have an onboard speaker, or some mboards have neither and you must plug amplified speakers into the speaker jack for the onboard sound and have them turned on.

If you get the no ram beep pattern, check that you have any dual channel ram in the right slots. If you do and it was in the right slots, or in any case, at least some of your ram modules are not compatible with the mboard.

In that case, see response 5 in this for some info about ram compatibilty, and some places where you can find out what will work in your mboard for sure:
http://www.computing.net/hardware/w...
Correction to that:
Mushkin www.mushkin.com


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Response Number 4
Name: Tubesandwires
Date: January 30, 2007 at 21:15:22 Pacific
Subject: Computer wouldn't boot up
Reply: (edit)

"Could you post a picture :) that would be very helpful, and my wires were a bit messy and all tangled and that could have been it."

Picture of what? Messy and tangled is not good. If it's that messy you should start over.
Remove the power to the case whenever you do change or install or remove anything inside the case - ATX mboards are always powered in places, even when Windows is Shut Down or in Standby or Hibernate modes, or even when there is no drives on it.
It should be organized enough that you can easily see where wires and cables come from and go to. You may have to move aside cables to be able to see ram and card slots well enough.
See your mboard manual - make sure you have everything in the right places. If you don't have a printed manual, the mboard manual is on the CD that comes with the mboard - a .pdf file usually. If you don't have either, you need to get the the manual from the Epox web site, and you need to get all the drivers for the mboard model after Windows is running, from the Epox web site and possibly the main chipset drivers from the main chipset maker's web site if they are not on the Epox web suite.


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Response Number 5
Name: jboy
Date: January 30, 2007 at 23:32:50 Pacific
Subject: Computer wouldn't boot up
Reply: (edit)

A picture is worth a thousand words (you could post two)

I'm not one of those who think Bill Gates is the devil. I simply suspect that if Microsoft ever met up with the devil, it wouldn't need an interpreter.


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Response Number 6
Name: Menik
Date: February 2, 2007 at 14:15:35 Pacific
Subject: Computer wouldn't boot up
Reply: (edit)

Alrite just an update. I got it working...some what... If shut down the computer it just doesn't turn on and it stalls again. What's wrong with it? Also my computer has like a good 4 min wait for my wireless to actually show up. It just sort of freezes when I highlight over the "Connect To" bar in the start menu. And also how can I make sure that I'm running Dual core? Computer just seems to freeze more now. :(


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Response Number 7
Name: Tubesandwires
Date: February 2, 2007 at 20:07:20 Pacific
Subject: Computer wouldn't boot up
Reply: (edit)

It's good to hear you got it going!

I took a look at your first post again.
Your PS is an excellent brand.
Unfortunately 400 watts is not enough for your new mboard especially if it has a PCI-e graphics card installed like you do. You need an absolute minimum of 430 watts - something closer to 500 watts would be better. Another Antec would be an excellent choice. Just don't get an el-cheapo.

If you or someone you know has a PS with enough watts and you can briefly borrow it, try that first.
.....

Wireless networking isn't better than wired networking - it's just more convenient.

If your wireless is B or B/G your slow to connect problem is common. Lots of people have trouble getting wireless B or B/G to work well. That a large part of why they're relatively inexpensive these days.
A salesman in a Future Shop told me he tried 4 or 5 different models/brands before he got a combo that worked well, and it has no sure relation to how much you pay or what brand you use. A friend of mine has a recent HP laptop with wireless B/G that won't connect to her router/modem right away or at anytime at the faster G standard speeds even close by, yet an el-cheapo USB connected wireless adapter in a computer in the next room connects fine at G speeds right away. That same USB wireless adapter is slower to connect to the internet than yours is when using the same elcheapo brand's router it came with.

If your router or combo router/modem is close enough to at least one computer and you have a wired network connection on that computer, or can install a PCI wired network card if it doesn't, the connection to the internet will be reliable to that computer if you connect a network cable between the router or combo router/modem and the wired port on the computer. If there are other computers connected wirelessly to that computer, their connection to the internet will be more reliable.

Other than that...
Sometimes if you change the wireless card or USB connected network adapter to another model or brand, you will get more reliable and faster connections. Or it could be the router, or combo router/modem.



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