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Name: Bryco
Looking at the CMOS Jumper settings it shows to move the jumper from 1+2 to 2+3 for 10 seconds to clear the CMOS.
The machine listed is not mine. It belongs to a nephew. He asked me to see if I could get it going. It's not the power supply (PS).
Power it up and it's PS light just blinks instead of being a steady light as is the same for the LED under the Power button on the front of the case. Unplug P1 and the PS light is steady.But, it appears to me that the CMOS jumper is already on 2+3 (the two pins to the right as shown in the image) vs the two pins to the left.
The question is...If the jumper is actually on 2+3 already would this prevent the PC from going to POST? (Thinking that someone else was already trying to help my nephew by clearing the CMOS but never setting it back.)
Thanks for reading,
Bryan
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?lc=en&cc=us&dlc=en&product=405454&lang=en&docname=c00072236#N906
You can't leave it on 2-3
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The question is...If the jumper is actually on 2+3 already would this prevent the PC from going to POST? (Thinking that someone else was already trying to help my nephew by clearing the CMOS but never setting it back.)
You are correct Bryco-Bryan
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Hi, Some newer MBs will not post if the jumper is set to the clear position (2-3). Clear disconnects the CMOS Setup battery and shorts the circuit capacitors to bleed them down and reset the SETUP to defaults. MBs come set to clear to keep from running the batt down while on the dealer's shelve.
Good Luck, Jim
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Thanks for the feedback.
I moved the jumper and tries to boot and got less. Moved them back and just the flickering light on the PSU and Power button.
I removed all connections and reseated the RAM and processor with no positive results.
I am convinced it's the mobo as being shot although I can not figure out why. The user just went on vacation. It worked before but not upon their return.
Thanks again,
Bryan
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Hopefully the trip did not include taking lava stones from Hawaii....LOL
Anyway, before you condemn the motherboard, why not benchtest it on a surface outside the case and see what gives.
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Check the LED, power switch, speaker, etc. block. I've seen people put a jumper over the reset pins.
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I have since spoken with the user whom stated that nobody had looked at it before I opened the case so it's not a situation where someone has moved any pins.
The processor has no burn marks whatsoever and none of the capacitors are bulging or popped.
"why not benchtest it on a surface outside the case and see what gives."
That's not a bad idea. I'm not sure how much more time I want to put into it as they have alreay purchased a replacement PC.
If I do spend any more time on it I now have something worth trying. Thanks fore the suggestion because, otherwise, it baffles me to some degree.I retrieved all the data off of it's hard drive.
Thank you all again,
Bryan
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