blue light flashes but desktop doesnt turn on

December 18, 2010 at 02:00:36
Specs: Windows 7, 1.995 GHz / 1915 MB

PB 3100W AMD X2 250+ 3.0GHz 4GB 500GB HDD ,Windows7

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December 18, 2010 at 10:53:25

Where is the blue light flashing? Power button? Hard drive light? How many times does it flash? It may be giving a POST code that you can look up.

If builders built buildings like programmers wrote programs, then the first woodpecker that came along would destroy civilization.

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December 18, 2010 at 11:31:30

blue light is around the on button. It flashes once.

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December 18, 2010 at 15:16:55

look up the POST codes for your motherboard and see if that explains anything

If builders built buildings like programmers wrote programs, then the first woodpecker that came along would destroy civilization.

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December 18, 2010 at 16:11:18

What are the specs on your power supply ?

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December 18, 2010 at 22:07:11

Are you hearing any beeps from the mboard after you have pressed the Power button ?
If yes, how many, and are they short or long ?

PB Technologies (Auckland, New Zealand)

PB 3100W system model


"CPUAMD2250 AMD Athlon X2 Dual Core 250 3.0GHz 2 x 1MB L2 cache Socket AM3 65W Retail box ( ADX250OCGQBOX )"

"MBDGBM1043 GIGABYTE MA74GM-S2 DDR2 800 AMD 740G+SB710 Raid 0 1 0+1 JBOD Gigabit LAN Dual BIOS onboard graphics (256MB) 6/8CH Audio"


No part number for it here that matches modules found on the Hynix web site:

(Case and power supply)
"CHASUP0373 SUPERCASE TX373 Micro ATX Case with 300W Super Power supply black"

Searching the web finds that the "Super Power" power supply is probably a model made by Codegen, and they are sold separately quite cheaply. There is no Codegen web site that I can find - decent power supply brands have a decent web site. There are lots of mentions of Codegen power supplies that have malfunctioned or that have failed completely on the web.
Therefore, your power supply is probably an el-cheapo model that is more likely to cause you problems.

This came with 2gb of ram.

Have you installed more ram ?

You have only a 300 watt power supply.

Have you added a video card in a mboard slot, or do you want to have the option to be able do that in the future ?

If yes.....

There are very few video cards that have video chipsets that can be used on a system that has only a 300 watt power supply without damaging the power supply eventually.

If you have a video card installed in a PCI-E slot, it may have one or two 6 or 8 "pin" power sockets on it - if it does, you MUST connect (a) power connector(s) from the PS to the socket(s) that fills the socket(s). If your PS does not have connectors, or a pair of connectors in the same wiring bundle, that fills the socket(s), if the video card did not come with wiring adapters, then you must buy and use suitable wiring adapters than can plug into the socket(s) and (an) available other connector(s) from the PS.

Your power supply must have at least the minimum capacity required to support a system with the graphics card you are using installed, or the max graphics card you might install in the future.
(Onboard video - video built into the mboard - IS NOT A CARD ! )
If that info is not in the ad for the video card, you can go to the video card maker's web site and look up the specs for the model - often under system requirements - the minimum PS wattage, and, more important, the minimum amperage the PS must supply at 12v is stated. If you don't find that, any card with the same video chipset including any letters after the model number has very similar minimum PS requirements. Some power supplies have two or more +12v ratings - in that case, add those ratings to determine the total +12v current capacity.

If you're a gamer...
In most if not all cases, the max capacity rating of the PS is an intermittent rating. It's recommended that you do not load your PS to any more that 80% of that rating if you are going to be using something that puts a constant load on it, such as playing a recent game for hours on end. In that case, you multiply the min capacity stated for the system with the particular video chipset on the card by 1.25 to find the min. capacity of the PS you should get.

If you HAVE been fiddling with anything inside the computer case, or if you have moved the computer case from one place to another since the computer last worked properly, or in any situation you could do this.....

Unplug the case/power supply, or switch off the AC power to it otherwise.
Power off your monitor.
Open up the case by removing the left side panel as seen when you're looking at the front of the case.
Check all the connections of the wiring to make sure they are all the way onto their pins and into their sockets, especially the main connector from the power supply. The wires close to the mboard going into the main power connector/socket should be more or less perpendicular to the mboard surface rather than at an angle. You must connect TWO wiring connectors from the PS to the power sockets on the mboard - the main 24 "pin" one, and another 4 or 8 "pin" one.
Make sure all cards in slots, and all ram modules, are all the way down in their slots.
There MUST be a 3 or 4 wire female connector from the cpu fan connected to the proper 3 or 4 pin cpu fan header on the mboard. 3 wire fan connectors can be connected to 4 pin fan headers, and visa versa.

Restore AC power and try booting the computer.

If that doesn't help....

In any situation where nothing else is wrong, the most likely thing is......

Failing power supplies are common and can cause your symptoms.
Check your PS.
They often partially work, fans and hard drives may spin, leds may come on, yet you may get no video and the mboard will not boot all the way.
See response 4 in this:

If it is failing, you can usually replace it with any decent standard sized standard ATX PS with the same capacity or greater.

Standard (PS/2) power supply size - 86mm high, 150mm wide, 140mm deep, or 3 3/8" h x 5 7/8" w x 5 1/2" d , or very close to that, though the depth can be more or less for some PSs.

Don't buy an el-cheapo PS.
See response 3 in this:

If you DID install more ram, if it's not the identical part number as the original Hynix ram, not all ram modules will work properly in your mboard. In the worst cases of incompatibility, the mboard WILL NOT boot properly.
Try removing the additional ram you installed, when the AC power has been disconnected from the case.

See response 2 in this - try cleaning the contacts on the ram modules, and making sure the modules are properly seated:

Hynix ram web site:

They have no Ram configurator or similar - a program you can use to find the ram that will work for sure in your mboard model.

Your original 2gb ram module probably has one of these two part numbers:

Part No. Org. Vol. Ref. Speed
H5PS2G43AFR x4 1.8V 8K Ref. Y5/S5/S6
H5PS2G83AFR x8 1.8V 8K Ref. Y5/S5/S6

The part number is on the label on the module.

[Note] Speed
Part Number Description
S5 DDR2-800 5-5-5
DDR2 DDR2-800 6-6-6

5-5-5 or 6-6-6 are the ram timing numbers.

The first number is the CAS latency. The second number is the TRCD. The last number is the TRP.

Most DDR2 ram has 4 timing numbers.

1st - TCL - CAS Latency Time
2nd - Trcd - DRAM RAS# to CAS# Delay
3rd - Trp - DRAM RAS# Precharge
4th - Tras - Precharge delay

The label on the ram module may have 3 or 4 timing numbers.
If it has only 3, I found no info about what the Tras value is for your possible ram modules on the Hynix web site.

If you have more than one ram module installed, the bios must NOT have any timing number set LOWER than the lowest timing number in the same position of ALL the modules.

The original ram module is specified to use 1.8v.
If you have added (a) ram module(s), you will have problems if it is (they are) not specified to use 1.8v as well.

DDR2 800mhz / PC6400 a.k.a. PC26400 ram may have a voltage specified for it that is higher than the standard JEDEC spec 1.8v.

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