Solved Bios crashed

March 31, 2010 at 13:23:55
Specs: Win xp sp2
Hi, i have Ga-945 motherboard, samsung sata 160 hdd, ram 1 gb 533 Mhz. some days ago my Hdd crashed & i replace it with warranty. But the motherboard sometimes didn't detect it! Then yesterday my motherboard's bios & ram crashed. I installed 512 ddr2 ram. Now my pc scan for bios image on Flopy drive( i don't have it) & hard drive. What should i do?

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✔ Best Answer
June 15, 2010 at 13:31:50
All advice given on this web site is to be tried by you at your own risk, of course, but on the other hand, it's extremely unlikely trying installing the video card in the new mboard will do any harm.

The ATX mboards in desktop computers are always powered in some places by the ATX power supply, including some of the contacts in the slots, even when the computer is not running, as long as the power supply is connected to the mboard, the PS is receiving live AC power, and the power supply is switched on, if it has a switch on it.

Whenever you plug in or unplug anything into the mboard inside the computer case, or plug in or unplug anything from the power supply's wiring inside the computer case, you MUST either unplug the AC cord to the computer, or otherwise switch off the AC power to the computer.

If you have been doing that, every time, your video card is probably fine, and installing it won't hurt the mboard or the video card.

What might you see if the power supply isn't working properly?

Sometimes power supplies that are producing voltages within the expected 5 to 10% of the nominal voltages (+3.3, +5, and +12 v being the most important) and that have enough capacity can malfunction such that they don't respond properly to an additional load on them.

- If you get no video from the video card when the card is installed and it has a monitor plugged into it, it's a lot more likely the power supply is defective than the video card is defective. In that case you could try the video card in another mboard to rule out that being the problem.

- if you DO get video from the card, you install the drivers for it and it works fine, but the computer black screens and reboots (or black screens and shuts down the system and it won't start up for a while after that) when you use some program that puts more of a load on the system, such as a recent or fairly recent game, e.g. after you've been using the program continuously for a while, it's likely the PS is defective.

NOTE that sometimes after you install the specific drivers for the video chipset, after you reboot, you get video while booting but not in Windows once it's starts to load. That can be easily fixed and does not indicate the video card is not working properly - the cause of that is the specific drivers are not detecting your monitor properly and sometimes in that case you get no video at all in your operating system when you boot normally.
......

Any power supply can malfunction or fail completely, but el-cheapo power supplies are a lot more likely to do that and a lot more likely to damage something other than themselves when they fail completely.



#1
March 31, 2010 at 15:55:57
Bioses and ram don't crash!
Crashing is a software problem - most of the data in the bios is read only, and ram only stores data, there is no ram software except read ony identity data.

It's extremely rare for you to have any problem that is caused by your bios if it was working fine previously , unless you flashed it with the wrong bios update, or you flashed it and something went wrong while flashing.

Bad ram is a myth.
It's extremely rare for ram that worked fine previously to spontaneously fail, and almost impossible for more than one ram module to fail at the same time even if it did.

If your ram worked fine previously, it's extremely unlikely there's anything wrong with it.

"I installed 512 ddr2 ram."
Not all ram is compatible with your mboard - ram you haven't installed in the mboard before can be incompatible with using it in your mboard.
Don't complicate things by installing ram that hasn't been installed in the mboard when you can't figure out what's wrong!
Install only the ram that was in it previously that worked fone !

But - ram can have a poor connection.
See response 2 in this - try cleaning the contacts on the ram modules, and making sure the modules are properly seated:
http://www.computing.net/hardware/w...
........

It is easy to test for whether your problem is caused by the ram you have installed.

Make sure you have a speaker or speakers or the equivalent connected to the mboard so you can hear mboard beeps (see your mboard manual if you need to).
Remove the AC power to the case/power supply.
Remove all the ram.
Restore AC power.
Try to boot.
If nothing else is wrong, you will get no video but you will hear a pattern of beeps that indicate no ram is installed, or a ram problem.
E.g. for an Award bios or a bios based on one, that's often a beep of about a half second, silence for a half second, a beep of about a half second, silence for a half second, continuously.
.....

The power supply may be failing.

Failing power supplies are common and can cause your symptoms.
Check your PS.
They often partially work, fans and hard drives may spin, leds may come on, yet you may get no video and the mboard will not boot all the way.
See response 4 in this:
http://www.computing.net/hardware/w...

If it is failing, you can usually replace it with any decent standard sized standard ATX PS with the same capacity or greater.

Standard (PS/2) power supply size - 86mm high, 150mm wide, 140mm deep, or 3 3/8" h x 5 7/8" w x 5 1/2" d , or very close to that, though the depth can be more or less for some PSs.

Don't buy an el-cheapo PS.
See response 3 in this:
http://www.computing.net/answers/ha...

Your power supply must have at least the minumum capacity required to support a system with the graphics card you are using installed, or the max graphics card you might install in the future.
(Onboard video - video built into the mboard - IS NOT A CARD ! )
If that info is not in the ad for the video card, you can go to the video card maker's web site and look up the specs for the model - often under system requirements - the minimum PS wattage, and, more important, the minimum amperage the PS must supply at 12v is stated. If you don't find that, any card with the same video chipset including any letters after the model number has very similar minimum PS requirements. Some power supplies have two or more +12v ratings - in that case, add those ratings to determine the total +12v current capacity.

If you're a gamer...
In most if not all cases, the max capacity rating of the PS is an intermittent rating. It's recommended that you do not load your PS to any more that 80% of that rating if you are going to be using something that puts a constant load on it, such as playing a recent game for hours on end. In that case, you multiply the min capacity stated for the system with the particular video chipset on the card by 1.25 to find the min. capacity of the PS you should get.
......

"...the motherboard sometimes didn't detect it! "

You may have a poor data cable connection to the hard drive.

It is common to un-intentionally damage IDE data cables, especially while removing them - the 80 wire ones are more likely to be damaged. What usually happens is the cable is ripped at either edge and the wires there are either damaged or severed, often right at a connector or under it's cable clamp there, where it's hard to see - if a wire is severed but it's ends are touching, the connection is intermittant, rather than being reliable.
Another common thing is for the data cable to be separated from the connector contacts a bit after you have removed a cable - there should be no gap between the data cable and the connector - if there is press the cable against the connector to eliminate the gap.
80 wire data cables are also easily damaged at either edge if the cable is sharply creased at a fold in the cable.

Try another data cable if in doubt.


Check your SATA data cables. The connector on each end should "latch" into the socket on the drive and on the mboard, or on the drive controller card - it should not move when you merely brush your hand against it near the socket - if it does, mere vibration can cause a poor connection of it - use another SATA data cable that does "latch", or tape the connector in place.
(There is a slight projection or bump on one side of the outside of the connector that "latches" it into the socket - it's easily broken off or damaged)

The same thing applies for the SATA power connection.
........

"Now my pc scan for bios image on Flopy drive( i don't have it) & hard drive."

Remove any CD that came with the mboard you have in a drive - some of them will load a bios recovery program automatically when they are in the drive while booting.

If you didn't have such a CD in a drive, your symptoms are those you get when
- you flashed the bios with the wrong bios update,
- or - you flashed the bios and something went wrong while flashing.

Almost all desktop mboards, even new ones, have a floppy data header on them, even when the computer case does not have a floppy drive installed in it. If your bios IS trashed, you may need to connect a floppy drive and a floppy data cable in order to be able to attempt to flash the bios with the RIGHT bios update to get the bios working properly again - there may be no other way.


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#2
March 31, 2010 at 22:33:12
Hey thanks for all the info. But, the 512 ram was the original old ram of my mboard & if i use no or the 1gb ram the beep of the mboard kicks in. Also among 2 ram slots of mboard if i connect the 512mb or 1gb on the 2nd i get the beep. As for bios, I never flashed it!! & i have the mboard cd but, it doesn't read from it. I also change the battary, but it didn't help. I will follow your other inst. Thanks a lot...

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#3
April 1, 2010 at 00:06:16
Walla & worse!! I clean the ram & then no screen & sound at all.. I quickly shut it down & reinsert the ram. This time it shows the previous symptom(scaning..). Again, after a reinsert of ram the screen has no show(with a ticking sound from hardisk). By the way i have a external pci-e gigabyte grafix card with Ati raedon chip whose min req is 400W & my ps is 500W, 3.3V 28A (orange), 5V 34A(red), 12V 14A(yelow), -12V .5A(blue), 5Vsb 2A(purple). I think i have to replace my ps.

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Related Solutions

#4
April 1, 2010 at 09:24:19
"Now my pc scan for bios image on Flopy drive( i don't have it)"
"This time it shows the previous symptom(scaning..)."

Describe exactly what you're seeing.

It's extremely unlikely a failing PS would cause that.

The only thing I know of that might cause your mboard to "think" the bios is corrupted, if you didn't attempt to flash the bios , or if the original mboard CD is not in a drive, is...
- you have had malware corrupt the bios - that's extremely unlikely if you had any anti-malware (anti-virus at least) software installed in the operating system - I haven't heard of that actually happening to anyone for many years,
- or - the mboard is failing or is otherwise damaged.
Some mboards develop this problem - electrolytic capacitors were installed on them that were not properly made, and they fail eventually - the mboard manufacturer didn't know they were improperly made at the time the mboard was made.

Sometimes a malfunctioning power supply, or power surges or spikes, can damage the mboard components as well.

Open up your case and examine the mboard to see if you have bad capacitors, and/or other findable signs of mboard damage .

This was the original bad capacitor problem - has some example pictures.
History of why the exploding capacitors and which mboard makers were affected:
http://members.datafast.net.au/~dft...

What to look for, mboard symptoms, example pictures:
http://www.badcaps.net/pages.php?vid=5
Home page that site
- what the problem is caused by
- he says there are STILL bad capacitors on more recent mboards.
http://www.badcaps.net/

Pictures of blown capacitors, other components, power supplies, Athlon cpu's, etc.:
http://www.halfdone.com/Personal/Jo...
.........

"Ga-945 "

That's probably not the full model number.

The model, sometimes the make, of a mboard in a generic desktop system is usually printed on the mboard's surface in obvious larger characters, often between the slots.
Quote that, and the mboard Version or Revision number which is usually beside the model number - V or Ver x.x, or R or Rev x.x .

One beep of a certain tone that you always hear early in the boot sequence when the mboard is booting normally indicates the mboard completed it's POST (Power On Self Test) successfully.
No beep, or a beep of another tone you don't normally hear, or a pattern of more than one beeps, indicates something is wrong.
If you're not getting a normal sounding beep, or if you're getting a pattern of beeps, describe that - higher or lower tone, short or long beep, number of them, whether the beeps stop or are repeated endlessly.

Describe the beep pattern when no ram is installed.

ATX power supplies are always powering ATX mboards in some places, including some of the contacts in the ram and the card slots, as long as the power supply is receiving live AC, even when the computer is not running.
Always unplug the computer, or otherwise switch off the AC power to the computer. whenever you're fiddling with plugging in or in plugging any connection or components inside the computer case.


Ram can be finicky to get a proper connection in a slot. Make sure it's all the way down in the slot, and that both latches at the ends of the slots are latched. If you get no beeps, no video, try re-seating it/them again.

Some mboards must have the ram slots populated in a certain order, or certain slots may be for double sided ram.

If you didn't choose all your ram by looking it up on the web and searching to see which specific module part numbers work fine in your mboard model, the ram may not be 100% compatible with using it in your mboard model. Sometimes such individual ram modules work fine when installed by themselves, but they do not work fine when another module is also installed.

Which Radeon chip does the PCI-E graphics card have?

The +12v max output of your power supply that you quoted is very low for a 500 watt PS - are you sure it has only one +12v rating ? - it would be more expected you would have two +12v outputs of that rating for a 500 watt power supply. e.g. I have an Enermax 431 watt PS here that puts out 20 amps at +12v, it has one +12v output; +3.3v 38 amps , +5v 44 amps.

Changing the mboard battery will not cure your symptoms, unless you had the very rare case that the original one was shorted internally. The mboard should boot fine even when the battery isn't installed, although you will (normally) get a "Cmos Checksum Error" or similar message while booting and will have to set at least the date and time in the bios Setup.


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#5
April 2, 2010 at 11:57:54
I have GraphicsCard ATI RaedonHD4350/pci-e 2.0/ 512 MB GDDR2/64 bit DVI-I/HDMI/D-Sub (Model Name:GV-R435OC-512I); MotherBoard Gigabyte GA-82945GZM-S2; That's all i got.
Now for PS I got 500W, 3.3V 28A (Orange Cable), 5V 34A(Red Cable), 12V 14A(Yelow Cable), -12V .5A(Blue Cable), 5Vsb 2A(Purple Cable). For SATA Power Cable i got 1Orange,1Yellow,1Red & 2Black. I also have a Converter for IDE to SATA which have 1Yellow,1Red & 2Black for both in & out. Which obviously I don't get it. When I start my PC wihout Ram I get a very high frequency beep coninuously but no video. Then i unplug the pci-e card & now no video or beep(with Ram). About the Bios Scanning I saw
Award Bios v1.0
Detecting Floppy drive
Scaning BIOS image on HardDrive
Scaning BIOS image on Floppydiskete



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#6
April 2, 2010 at 18:20:17
"I have GraphicsCard ATI RaedonHD4350/pci-e "

Radeon HD4300 series System Requirements
300 Watt or greater power supply (350 Watt for ATI CrossFireX™ technology in dual mode) is recommended
http://www.amd.com/us/products/desk...

My note - dual mode = two HD43xx video chipsets, one each on 2 cards in 2 slots, or on one card (I don't think that exists) .

"Now for PS I got 500W, 3.3V 28A (Orange Cable), 5V 34A(Red Cable), 12V 14A....."

See the last part of Response 4 - you probably have TWO +12v ratings in the label . If you don't, you have a weird el-cheapo power supply that may not be adequate.

NOTE that the capacity you need to be concerned about is the max total rated OUTPUT capacity - a power supply is not 100% efficient and always uses more AC power / wattage than it supplies in DC power / wattage.
.......

NOTE that it's possible all your symptoms could be caused by a faulty power supply. If you can borrow a power supply from a working computer that has at least a 300 watt total OUTPUT capacity, then try that connected to your mboard.
.........

"Gigabyte GA-82945GZM-S2"

No such model found.

Closest I found is
GA-945GZM-S2 (rev. 1.x, 2.1, 3.x, or 6.6)

The model number you quote is printed on the mboard's surface, not on a chip.

Is that what you have? if so, which rev is it ?
........

"When I start my PC wihout Ram I get a very high frequency beep coninuously"

The normal Award beep pattern for newer mboards / bioses for no ram installed, if nothing else is wrong, is usually a beep of about a half second, silence for a half second, a beep of about a half second, silence for a half second, continuously.
.....

"Award beep codes"

Excerpt:

" 1 High Pitched Beep (Repeating)
A single, repeating, high pitched beeping sound means that the CPU is overheating. You'll need to figure out why the CPU is getting too hot before this Award beep code will go away.

Important: Turn your computer off immediately if you hear this beep code. The longer your CPU is running hot, the higher the chance that you'll permanently damage this expensive part of your system. "
http://pcsupport.about.com/od/fixth...

Remove the AC power to the computer.
Open up the case.
Use something thin to try to move the fan blade on the cpu (processor) fan. (That fan is the one on a larger heat sink on the mboard.)
The fan blade should move in jumps, but it should be easy to move.
If it's difficult or impossible to get the fan blade to move, the bearings on the cpu fan have failed, and the cpu (processor) may already have overheated too much and is damaged such that it can never work normally.

If the fan blade moves okay, the cpu fan motor may be burned out. Restore AC power to the case, and try to boot. If the cpufan doesn't spin, then the cpu fan motor may be burned out, or the power supply may not be supplying power to it, or the mboard may be damaged. You can test the fan by removing it and connecting it to any free 3 pin fan header on a working desktop system's mboard, and booting the computer.

If the cpu fan was not spinning on your mboard, the cpu (processor) may already have overheated too much and is damaged such that it can never work normally.

If the cpu fan IS spinning on your mboard, then the cpu / processor is probably okay.
If the cpu fan/heatsink has mung (dust, lint, etc.) on it, clean it off, but DO NOT use a vaccuum cleaner to do that (they produce a tremendous amount of static electricity when running, and anything connected to them can discharge that to your components) - use canned air, or an air nozzle if you have access to an air compressor, or an artist's brush that can be used in small spaces, etc. It may be difficult to clean the top of the heatsink under the cpu fan - the most likely place to have mung on it - and the bottom side of the cpu fan blades unless you remove the fan. If you have a case fan, clean that too if it needs it.

Also check for mung on the video card fan and heatsink if it has that, and the power supply's openings / fan.
............

"Then i unplug the pci-e card & now no video or beep(with Ram)"

That's NOT normal either.
If your mboard does not have onboard video (video built into the mboard), assuming you had the ram seated correctly, if nothing else was wrong, you should probably get one long beep followed by two short beeps, all the same medium tone, then silence, for no video card installed or a video problem.
........

"About the Bios Scanning I saw
Award Bios v1.0
Detecting Floppy drive
Scaning BIOS image on HardDrive
Scaning BIOS image on Floppydiskete "

I think what you actually saw was something the same or very similar to this -

Award Bootblock Bios v1.0 - note the Bootblock

Detecting floppy drive a media...
scanning bios image in hard drive...
scanning bios image in floppy diskette...
can not find bios image in hard drive or diskette!
.......

I'm assuming you HAVE NOT moved a jumper on the mboard to clear the Cmos and have forgotten to move the jumper jack to it's normal position. That could cause a false message from the bios .

If the cpu fan blade moves okay and is spinning okay, try another power supply first.

If you still get that message, there is a procedure to attempt to recover the bios, but it's NOT NORMAL for the bios to suddenly get corrupted, unless you were NOT using an anti-virus program in Windows before this happened, and I MUST know your EXACT mboard model and revision.


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#7
April 4, 2010 at 12:52:41
okey i don't know the reission number of my mboard but u r right about serial number (it is "GA-945GZM-S2") but when i
used the pc before the problem i saw "Gigabyte GA-82945GZM-S2" on the 1sr screen. About the cpu overhitting i ud say u r genius.because i cheqed that & my cpu fan wasn't
running well. at start up it was slowing down like try to stop, but then it was running. i immidiately turn of my ups. hey man my mboard has onboard video chip too!! i will try out another ps. untillthen thanks for help. About Anti-virus i used AVG 9 with updated file & i don't use intenet on my pc

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#8
April 4, 2010 at 14:21:45
If the mboard revision isn't printed right beside the GA-945GZM-S2 where its printed on the surface of the mboard, it's in obvious probably larger printing elswhere on the surface of the mboard.(rev. 1.x, 2.1, 3.x, or 6.6)

You must replace the cpu fan as soon as you can, don't run the computer until you do, however, the cpu may already be damaged from overheating. The cpu be damaged in only a few minutes if the cpu fan is not spinning, or a bit longer if it's spinning too slowly.
You will need a fan of some sort for the cpu - a case fan will do temporarily.

If the computer boots okay when it's had a chance to cool to room temp with another power supply connected to it, then replace the cpu fan and you may be good to go.

If you still get the Bootblock Bios message with another power supply, I will still need the revision number of the mboard model (rev. 1.x, 2.1, 3.x, or 6.6) .


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#9
April 27, 2010 at 11:10:28
Sorry, I cudn't contact u for a long time. i am getting no screen. My mboard revission is rev.3.9. i also used another PS. But, if i don't use any Ram then still i got the ram beep.


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#10
April 29, 2010 at 12:10:13
Answer ALL questions it this PLEASE !

"i am getting no screen. .........i also used another PS"

What (output) capacity does the other power supply have ?

Where did you get that power supply ?

If you borrowed it from a working computer, try your original power supply with that other computer, and tell us what happens.

It should have at least 400 watts capacity with the Radeon card installed, at least 300 watts capacity without that installed.

Are you SURE you connected it properly?
It should have both the main 24 "pin" connector and a smaller connector from it connected to the mboard.
If you have the Radeon card installed, if the Radeon card has a power socket on it, you must connect to that from the power supply.

What video port is the monitor plugged into ?
The one on the Radeon card, or the one for the onboard video?

The one for the onboard video probably cannot produce video when the Radeon card is installed - only a port on the Radeon card will produce video.

If you can't get video from a port on the Radeon card, remove the AC power to the case (unplug it or switch off the AC source to it), remove the card, try the monitor plugged into the onboard video port.

You will get no video when no ram is installed - that's normal.
Install at least one ram module that was in it before when the computer had video.
.....

"....some days ago my Hdd crashed..."

What were the symptoms that made you think the hard drive was no good?
........

See Response 4 starting at:
" Open up your case and examine the mboard to see if you have bad capacitors, and/or other findable signs of mboard damage . "

Do you see any damage ?
...........

"....i cheqed that & my cpu fan wasn't
running well. at start up it was slowing down like try to stop,"

Did you replace the cpu fan, or at least install any 3 wire fan in place of the cpu fan, and connect it to the 3 pin cpu fan header ?

The fan must blow towards the cpu heat sink. You must be able to see the entire fan blade, with no support structure in the way of seeing the entire blade.

If your cpu fan has been like that for a while, the cpu may have been damaged from it getting way too hot.
The cpu MAY work at first when the computer is booted after having cooled to room temp.

A damaged cpu MAY cause all your symptoms. You MAY need to replace the cpu !
......

"My mboard revission is rev.3.9"

GA-945GZM-S2 (rev. 3.x) (support)
http://www.giga-byte.com/Support/Mo...

Manual
http://www.giga-byte.com/Support/Mo...
RIGHT click on Download beside the location, choose Save file as or similar to download it

Page 18 and 26 - make sure there is NO jumper on the clear Cmos pins

Make sure you have connected everything properly to the mboard from the power supply - the mboard itself (two places) and the Radeon card if it's installed and has a power socket on it.

Page 67 - Award bios codes

1 short - System boots successfully
2 short - Cmos setting error
1 long 1 short - Dram or mboard error
1 long 2 short - Monitor or display card error
1 long 3 short - Keyboard error
1 long 9 short - BIOS ROM error
Continuous beeps: Dram error
(my note: typically the beeps for that are long - about 1/2 second)
Continuous short beeps: Power error

Which beeps are you getting when no ram is installed ?

Are you getting a different beep pattern when ram that was installed before and worked fine previously is installed, or just no beeps?
.......

Your Boot Block bios problem.

If there is NOT a jumper on the clear cmos pins on the mboard, the only other thing I can think of that might cause you to get that message if you were using an anti-virus prgram in Windows is the mboard battery for the Cmos might be shorted.
You could try removing the Cmos battery on the mboard.

If that doesn't help, you could attempt a procedure that will auto flash the bios, but
- the mboard must boot at least part way - the fans must spin - the cpu must be okay, and there must be at least one ram module installed
- you must connect a floppy drive via a floppy drive data cable to the floppy data header on the mboard - borrow those from another computer, or you can buy both new for probably less than $20 from a place that has lots of computer parts.
If the floppy data cable has no external tab on it's connectors, the stripe on one side of the data cable should be on the pin 1 end of the mboard header, and on the end nearest to the power connector on the floppy drive. The floppy drive must be connected to the end of the data cable, after where there are wires in the cable flipped over. Make sure you get the power connector from the power supply so it's on all 4 pins on the floppy drive properly.
- the floppy drive's led MUST light up when you attempt to boot the computer - it should blink brefly, go off, the stay on for a longer time - if it does, I have further instructions, but you need to have access to another computer that has a floppy drive.


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#11
May 3, 2010 at 22:26:41
Hey, thanks for another post. but i bought a new processor( Core2Duo 2.9), mboard (Intel dg41rq),ram(1GB 800BUS),
PS(12V~16A,5V~28A,3.3V~28A) . Is it OK to Use my ATI RAEDON HD4350 with it.

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#12
May 3, 2010 at 22:29:45
My Grafix card don't have any power socket

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#13
May 4, 2010 at 09:38:01
"i bought a new processor( Core2Duo 2.9), mboard (Intel dg41rq),ram(1GB 800BUS)"

There's probably nothing wrong with your original ram module(s). There's a very good chance it will be compatible with using it in the the new mboard.

For, say, starting at about $50 more, you could have gotten a mboard that can support faster ram, and a better cpu that can use it.

"PS(12V~16A,5V~28A,3.3V~28A) .

Is it OK to Use my ATI RAEDON HD4350 with it."

Yes.

ATI Radeon™ HD 4300 Series System Requirements
http://www.amd.com/us/products/desk...
300 Watt or greater power supply

Is that the same power supply as before, or a different one?

If it's a different one, what max output in watts is on it's label?

In any case....

See the last part of Response 4 - you probably have TWO +12v ratings on the label . If you don't, if it's the same supposedly 500 watt power suplly, you have a weird el-cheapo power supply.
.......

Intel® Desktop Board DG41RQ - Overview
http://www.intel.com/products/deskt...

Support
http://www.intel.com/p/en_US/suppor...

Manuals (Technical Product Specification and Specification Update):
http://www.intel.com/support/mother...
Technical Product Specification
December 2008

Processors
http://processormatch.intel.com/Com...

There are three versions of Core2 Duo 2.93ghz
Click on Multiple values for more info.

The mboard revision and cpu you bought has to be compatible with that info.
If you click on the highlighted SLxxx number, the Intel part number is in the resulting info.


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#14
May 18, 2010 at 23:24:53
Hey, the new PC is working Quiet well !!. I entered it's bios & get this readings at 1st time. Processor's core temp is 45C & Mboard's temp is 40C. Wattege readings is +12V~12.288A; +5V~5.248A; +3.3V~3.328A; 5V(stand by)~26A.

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#15
May 18, 2010 at 23:30:25
Now, i think i have to compromise with my Gaming Habits. Because, my old ram's bus speed is 667Hz & my mboard's minimal bus speed is 800Hz. I didn't connect the graphix card to my PC. I afraid I have to sell it, because of my PS

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#16
May 18, 2010 at 23:44:45
oh, another thing i forgot to mention that my mboard has 20 pin & the new PS also have only 20 pin(no extra 4 pin). Now my mboard supports pixel shader 4.0 & 256MB(max grafix mem). So, it is quiet good( At least I think ). Now, i can't guarantee u about my new PS. Only the Above Readings( I think it's an elcheapo.). Now, give me a suggestion that can i use the grafix card with this PS. Otherwise, I have to wait for someone to by my grafix card & then I can buy a good PS & another 1GB ram. Plz. u Helped me a lot. Help me this last time to take the decisions.

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#17
May 19, 2010 at 09:14:42
OOOOPs SORRRYYY, +12V~12.288V; +5V~5.248V; +3.3V~3.328V; 5V(stand by)~5.V. Theese are not Wattege Reading, Theese are Voltage Reading. For 5V & 3.3V 210W is Max Output



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#18
May 19, 2010 at 19:05:58
The mboard's current (at the present moment) readings in the bios are the current voltages only.

The label on the power supply usually has amperage (output) ratings for each voltage (xx A), a total max wattage (output) rating, and sometimes a max wattage (output) rating for +3.3 +5v combined.
The max capacity wattage rating you need to be concerned about regarding whether it's enough to handle the graphics chipset on the card you're using on the system is the total max wattage rating, not the one for +3.3v and +5v combined.
Graphics cards (in a mboard slot) use mostly 12v power, sometimes a little 5v power; they usually don't use any 3.3v power.

E.g. I have an Enermax (excellent quality) PS on one computer

- max wattage (output) rating for +3.3 and +5v combined: 220watts
- total power (total max wattage (output) rating): 431 watts.

Sometimes, but not always, a number in the model number clues you in to the total max wattage (output) rating.
E.g. the Enermax model is EG465P-VE, the 465 a little higher than 431 watts.



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#19
May 22, 2010 at 00:53:40
my PS is 12V~14A; 5V~28A; 3.3V~28A. But it says that it can give only 210W max for 5V & 3.3V (joint). But, the problem is about the 12V it can't give much information without the rail which says 14A. I think I need a PS tester.

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#20
May 26, 2010 at 07:36:52
Can you see the entire label on the power supply ?
(Sometimes you can't see that until you detach the PS from the case.)
If so, quote the make and model of the PS.

Where are you getting the 500 watt capacity from that you keep quoting?

As I said in Response 4, a single output of 14A for +12v is very low for a 500 watt PS.
However, going by a 250 watt PS I have here, which puts out up to 9A at +12v, your PS capacity is more than enough to handle your graphics card, which requires a minimum 300 watt PS capacity.

No power supply tester that I know of can measure the total amperages the system is drawing from the PS - they can only measure voltages, and you can see the current (actual) voltages in the mboard bios's current readings in any case.


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#21
May 31, 2010 at 02:32:56
Thanks for the post. My PS model is ATX-500W-P4. That's it. Again thanks.

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#22
May 31, 2010 at 13:30:16

"My PS model is ATX-500W-P4. That's it. "

ATX-500W-P4 is very generic.
If there is no brand on the label, it's probably an el-cheapo PS.
It should be fine for your system the Radeon 4350, but if you get a video card that requires more power, the 14A +12v output is way under what it should be for a decent 500 watt power supply.


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#23
June 14, 2010 at 03:23:51
Thanks, Sorry I couldn't stay in-touch for many long times. I know that it's an elcheapo PS. But, I downloaded the manual of my Graphics card. It says the card needs 400W Minimum. Now, pls, can u assure me that i can use my Graphix card with my system.

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#24
June 14, 2010 at 08:16:22
You may be confused by me telling you the PS capacity must be at least 400 watts in some posts, 300 watts in others, but I specified 400 watts according to your info before you told me the video chipset is Radeon 4350.

If you are still using the Radeon 4350, the minimum PS capacity required for the system is 300 watts, according to AMD's / ATI's info - see Response 6 - they know best - they made the chipset.
If your video card was made by a clone card maker (a manufacturer other than ATI ) the min. PS capacity stated in the manual may be incorrect.

Your el-cheapo PS will handle that fine if there's nothing wrong with it.

If you have gotten are now wanting to use another video card you haven't specified, tell me what it is.

If the video card chipset of a card requires a minimum 400 watt capacity, your el-cheapo PS should still handle that if there's nothing wrong with it.

However, because your el-cheapo PS has a lot less than average +12v amperage capacity for a 500 watt capacity PS according to the info you have provided, unless it has two +12v ratings and you have missed stating the amperage for the second one, I do not recommend you use your el-cheapo PS with a card that has a video chipset that requires your system has greater PS capacity than 400 watts, because it's likely it can't actually handle that.

Try your system with the el-cheapo PS and the 4350, or whatever card that requires your system has a 400 watt capacity or less.
If the system will not work properly with the video card installed, that indicates the el-cheapo PS is malfunctioning.
In that case, I recommend you replace the PS before it fails completely, which can result in the PS frying something else besides itself, often the mboard.
You can usually replace it with any decent standard sized standard ATX PS with the same capacity or greater, that has at least the minimum capacity required for the video chipset on the card. .

Standard (PS/2) power supply size - 86mm high, 150mm wide, 140mm deep, or 3 3/8" h x 5 7/8" w x 5 1/2" d , or very close to that, though the depth can be more or less for some PSs.

Don't buy an el-cheapo PS.
See response 3 in this:
http://www.computing.net/answers/ha...


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#25
June 15, 2010 at 04:00:36
Okay, Thanx. Now, as i told u my grafix card was made by gigabyte(yep u got that it's a clone & i download the manual from gigabyte not, from ATI). I used my PS & the Grafix card together only one time. I didn't install the Grafix Driver But, it was working good.

"If the system will not work properly with the video card installed, that indicates the el-cheapo PS is malfunctioning. "

Can u tell me how i will find out the system is NOT working properly? (Ofcourse, without friyng up any new components of my PC !!!)


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#26
June 15, 2010 at 13:31:50
✔ Best Answer
All advice given on this web site is to be tried by you at your own risk, of course, but on the other hand, it's extremely unlikely trying installing the video card in the new mboard will do any harm.

The ATX mboards in desktop computers are always powered in some places by the ATX power supply, including some of the contacts in the slots, even when the computer is not running, as long as the power supply is connected to the mboard, the PS is receiving live AC power, and the power supply is switched on, if it has a switch on it.

Whenever you plug in or unplug anything into the mboard inside the computer case, or plug in or unplug anything from the power supply's wiring inside the computer case, you MUST either unplug the AC cord to the computer, or otherwise switch off the AC power to the computer.

If you have been doing that, every time, your video card is probably fine, and installing it won't hurt the mboard or the video card.

What might you see if the power supply isn't working properly?

Sometimes power supplies that are producing voltages within the expected 5 to 10% of the nominal voltages (+3.3, +5, and +12 v being the most important) and that have enough capacity can malfunction such that they don't respond properly to an additional load on them.

- If you get no video from the video card when the card is installed and it has a monitor plugged into it, it's a lot more likely the power supply is defective than the video card is defective. In that case you could try the video card in another mboard to rule out that being the problem.

- if you DO get video from the card, you install the drivers for it and it works fine, but the computer black screens and reboots (or black screens and shuts down the system and it won't start up for a while after that) when you use some program that puts more of a load on the system, such as a recent or fairly recent game, e.g. after you've been using the program continuously for a while, it's likely the PS is defective.

NOTE that sometimes after you install the specific drivers for the video chipset, after you reboot, you get video while booting but not in Windows once it's starts to load. That can be easily fixed and does not indicate the video card is not working properly - the cause of that is the specific drivers are not detecting your monitor properly and sometimes in that case you get no video at all in your operating system when you boot normally.
......

Any power supply can malfunction or fail completely, but el-cheapo power supplies are a lot more likely to do that and a lot more likely to damage something other than themselves when they fail completely.


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#27
June 19, 2010 at 01:29:29
Thanx a lot. I will install the driver then. If any problems happened I will notify u, But Until Then Good Bye !!

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