Voltage readings won't tell you much...what if they're with the 5% +/- tolerance range but not putting out enough amperage? You're not gonna determine that with a voltmeter or the BIOS. Besides, he apparently can't access the BIOS. Never heard of Frontier PSUs before.

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sandra said: CPU Voltage 1.60V AUX Voltage 2.53V +3.3V Voltage 3.23V +5V Voltage 3.63V +12V Voltage 9.92V Standby Voltage 3.76V and motherboard monitor dashboard shows +5V Voltage is changing from 3-5V +12V Voltage is changing from 8-10V can i trust these values!? anyway, i'll try with another psu...

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You don't need to use Sandra to find the current voltages - they are displayed in your bios Setup pages. "+5V Voltage 3.63V +12V Voltage 9.92V" Those should be within 10% of the nominal voltage - they are NOT. "Standby Voltage 3.76V" I'm not sure what that is referring to but it should probably be at least 5 volts. Your power supply is definately defective - replace it! Definately a POS! If you buy another one - it should cost you at least about $35 for a 350 watt one. You don't need more than that capacity for this system, but you could get one with more if you like. - there should be a decent web site for the brand of PS - it should have info about a warranty somewhere on the web site, if not in the specs in an ad. - the warranty should be at least a year, better still three, or some have a lifetime warranty - two or more fans are better than one - the fan(s) should have at least ball bearings on both sides of the fan(s), or better still ceramic or fluid filled bearings. - it should have anti-short and over-voltage protection, preferably the type that shuts off the PS immediately when either occurs. Better PSs will do that when a short happens and you merely have to wait a short time for them to reset, Cheap PSs often die immediately or fail in a short time when a short happens. If they don't die or shutoff from a short immediately, they will likely damage something else, often the mboard. If they produce too much voltage they can damage the moard or anything connected to it in a short time.

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alright! i tried with another psu, and it works! psu should be ok, i got correct voltage values with everest (i dont get these values in bios?) on that other pc (5V is 5V, 12V is 12V :)), but with same psu in my computer again i get incorrect values: Voltage Values CPU Core 1.60 V +2.5 V 2.53 V +3.3 V 3.25 V +5 V 4.01 V +12 V 9.86 V (athough these are higher values than with old psu) maybe its the mb not showing real values or having some issue? anyway, what matters for me is that ati is working now in mb :) i'll get new psu and hopefully "close this case". thank you very much for all your suggestions!

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What capacity does this other PS have? It may be inadequate for the system with the 9550 in it - a properly working 300 or 350 watt one should handle the system with that card. 250 watts or less is probably not enough. If it is 300 or 350 watts, the fact the voltages drop that much is an indication it can't actually handle it's higher ratings and it's probably an el-cheapo too. Going by the age of your mboard, and the fact Everest and Sysoft Sandra can find the voltages, you have hardware monitoring capability in your mboard chipset - the bios Setup, Everest, and Sysoft Sandra all get the voltage information from the same sources - sensors connected to the hardware monitoring circuits. Support for your model, mboard version 6.x: http://www.ecs.com.tw/ECSWebSite/Do... I looked at the bios Setup settings descriptions in your manual - you have a heading somewhere PC Health Status - that's where current voltages and fan speeds are displayed. "(i dont get these values in bios?)" Which voltages and fan speeds it displays is determined by how many and which sensors are actually connected to the hardware monitoring circuits, and by what whoever made the bios version decided to show you, and they may not all be displayed despite the fact the readings are being read.

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Tubesandwires, first of all, thank you, you solved my issue. I replaced psu with new one, and pc works just fine. New one is cheap one, brand codegen 400W, but hey, the rest of the pc is also very cheap. I know some chieftec would be correct solution, but it would cost like the rest of the present configuration :) The temporarly one i used was smthg like ans (?) 300w, i beleive it is very cheap one also, but on other pc, on gigabyte motherboard, it shows correct values, regarding to 5v and 12v. On my ecs mb it shows the values I mentioned?! The new one (codegen) shows round 4.8V for 5V and only 8V for 12V value (with peaks up to 12V). But everything works. Are you sure it could not be some anomaly of my ecs board? Or, as you mentioned, whole system is misfortunetly constructed in that way that cheap psu can not handle it properly? Yeah, i know PC Health Status in bios, but it only displays core voltage (2,5V), no voltage values for 5V and 12V, so no use of that. Mystery solved, I hope this post will help someone else also (i googled many sites/forums before this one, and found no clue for this, never crossed my mind it could be psu - even ecs tac replied 9550 can not work in my mb (!?)), and just before i decided to gave up, you helped in most effective way. Thank you once again.

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It's totally up to you whether you want to risk trashing the rest of your system by using an el-cheapo PS - they are also a lot more likely to damage something else when they fail - often the mboard, sometimes more. For as little as another $20 or so, you coud have gotten a decent PS. It's probably the case the Gigabyte mboard doesn't have a video card that draws as much power as the 9550. Is it possible the mboard sensors on this ECS mboard are inaccurate? Yes, but that's extremely unlikely, and I've never found that to be the case for any mboard that has the sensors (probably 40 or so that I have fiddled with, so far) - it's always been the PS that was inadequate or defective, and the sensor readings were accurate. If you want to find out for sure, the +12v and +5v are the same as the voltages you get at the power connectors to the drives - measure those voltages with a voltmeter - the black wires are - (negative), probably doesn't matter which one, yellow is +12v, red is +5v. If you still get 8v for what should be 12v, the PS you just bouught is a POS too! "....even ecs tac replied 9550 can not work in my mb...." From previous research I know all ATI video chipsets 9600 and above that support 8X AGP do not support 1X/2X AGP - that probably applies to 9550 too. Ones lower than that, that support 8X AGP, 9250 and below for sure, actually support 1X/2X/4X/8X AGP, and the cards are almost always wired up to support all those speeds, whether that is obvious in the specs fr the card or not (it often isn't apparent in the specs if it's a clone maker's (not made by ATI) card with an ATI chipset). Some mboard chipsets that have 4X "only" or 4X/8X "only" AGP slots, which require 1.5v, cannot use cards that also support 1X/2X, which require 3.3v, without damaging the AGP circuits or the card or both. Usually if that is the case for a mboard chipset, you are clearly warned about that fact in the mboard manual. ..... Side notes FYI. Many cheaper ECS mboards are actually made by Hsing Tech. Hsing Tech doesn't sell their mboards as Hsing Tech models, but they do sell them retail as PCChips models, and they also supply them wholesale to other vendors to be sold under their own brand and model number, one of which is ECS. Often the manual is generic and identical to the PCChips one, and the bios versions are identical to those for Hsing Tech/PCChips models, but sometimes ECS pulls a fast one and makes their own manual version. Hsing Tech / PCChips models never have the model number printed directly on the surface of the mboard. If there is no mention of ECS or any other maker in the manual, and/or if the ECS model is not printed directly onto the surface of the mboard, rather than possibly on a stuck on label, the mboard was actually made by Hsing Tech. Your manual makes no mention of ECS or Elite Computer Systems - the only thing in it that it has that applies to ECS is it has the ECS model number mentioned in it - k7vta3. Otherwise the manual is generic. According to the mboard diagram, there is no ECS model number printed onto the mboard surface. It is quite likely your mboard was actually made by Hsing Tech and is identical to a PCChips model, and the manual was probably only slightly altered by ECS from Hsing Tech's generic one used for an identical PCChips model. Hsing Tech/PCChips mboards vary in quality anywhere between crap and as good or better than comparable mboards. What they do have that is often low quality are the bios flash chips - they often use the absolute cheapest ones they can get, and those are known to be more likely to physically fail while flashing the bios, leaving you with a useless mboard unless you replace the bios chip with one already flashed.

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