Alright, this happened the same day I got BF2. Okay, I came home, and turned on my PC...But it wouldn't come on. I tried installing the orange speaker and reset onto the motherboard...Took me two times to do it, and it worked! But, today, Sunday, It took me more than thirty minutes to turn on the thing. So, this is what I did from the Asus, and PC Gaming Building Bible Magazine: I reseated the CPU, that didn't work, I took out the video card and reinstalled it, that didn't seem to be the problem either--also I took out the CMOS battery for 1 minute, than restalled that either, that wasn't the problem either! Couldn't hear any speaker sounds, and the orange light wouldn't come on. Well, to make a long story short, It came on after thirty minutes of doing this. I'm worried about the Asus A8n SLI motherboard, I'm worried that I'd have to buy a deluxe--It was like trying to start a car--a new car! Is there anything you can do? Should I buy a new motherboard, or should I try to fix the problem? Please help me! PS: I installed a GAme called: GunZ and it started giving my system errors, should I delete it?

New PC will be anounced later on.

1st of all, this has nothing to do with your BF2 game. It also has nothing to do with your CPU, video card, CMOS battery, & probably not your motherboard either. You're having a problem powering up, so wouldn't you think the power supply would be the logical thing to look at?

List the specs...not just wattage because that means nothing. What make/model is it & how many amps on are the +12v line(s)?

I really can't find the AMPs for that product, but I've taken it from the Newegg website. See if this is what you're looking for...

ATX 12V 2.0 Version
Maximum Power 550W
Fans Low noise 12cm fan
PFC Active
Main Connector 20+4-Pin
Dual +12V Yes
SLI Support NVIDIA SLI Certified
Power Good Signal 100-500ms
Hold-up Time 8ms(minimum) at 80%
Efficiency > 70%
Over Voltage Protection +5V output 7.0 Vmax
+3.3V output 4.5 Vmax
+12V output 15. 6 Vmax
Input Voltage 115/230 V
Input Frequency Range 50/60Hz
Input Current 10A @ 115V, 5A @ 230V
Output +3.3@30A,+5V@28A,+12v1@14A,+12v2@15A,-12V@0.3A,+5VSB@2A
Approvals UL, CUL, TUV, and CE certification.

New PC will be anounced later on.

You listed the amps (+12v1@14A,+12v2@15A)...what you didn't list was the brand name of the PSU

Thermaltake 550w PSU.

New PC will be anounced later on.

I really shouldn't have to ask question after question to help you. It certainly would help if you listed your system specs...writing TBA is useless. Don't you know what version of Windows you're running? your CPU? how much RAM?

You've been posting quite a bit lately in several of the forums. What does this mean? "I tried installing the orange speaker and reset onto the motherboard...Took me two times to do it". It sounds to me like your system is a mess.

Did you correct all the BIOS settings after removing the the CMOS battery? Simply selecting 'Defaults' is NOT the way to go. All the settings should be adjusted individually to best match your hardware.

Thermaltake makes good PSUs but there's always the possibility that you got a lemon but I think it's more likely that you have something configured wrong.

I did that once. But, If I leave the computer off for a long time, it goes to the Cmos error screen. Don't know what's wrong..I did everything correct, but I always run into problems. All I wanted to do is play smoothly, but I can't! You know why, because this is crap! :(

New PC will be anounced later on.

Hey, Jam. I'll just buy another PSU. If this one is giving me problems, I'll buy one of those Enermax 600watt SLI-Ready PSU's from newegg. Thermaltake is terrible--won't worrying about RMAing it. One more question, do you know any other brands that sell good PSU's also for SLI?

New PC will be anounced later on.