OK, so if I replace the case it should resume working? Or will I need a new cpu as well, since it may have burned out :(? Can't believe that of all things the PSU killed it >_< !!! I want to be sure it will work, so if you have any other case suggestions besides the one you sent already I would greatly appriciate it. Don't go by price however. Im willing to spend up to 80 or so to fix it. Im shocked that a 37$ case has better performance than the one im using now, it cost me 80~

0

I wish there was an edit option hehe I feel like a spammer posting so much. edit to my last post is if i replace PSU not the entire case. FYI im pretty bad at computers. The whole part where you wrote about bios and 12v-4pins etc etc went over my head lol. If my friend cna take a look at this post Ill have him do so. I had a friend help me when I built the whole thing. I just hope it didn't kill any of the other parts, being they were expensive >:( Im willing to spend a bit to make sure I get a good PSU, so post suggestions if you have them.

0

Your "friend" obviously doesn't know what he's doing...if he did, you wouldn't be in this mess. See if you can find someone else to help, or just keep posting back & someone here should be able to coach you along. The 12v 4-pin plug that I mentioned MUST be attached to the motherboard. It's located next to memory slots, close to the end, between the slots & the CPU. The link you posted for the video card is wrong, so I can't check what you have, but many higher end cards require an additional power plug from the PSU. If your's is one of those cards, make sure it's plugged in. The BIOS should be manually configured...no default setting or "optimal performance" setting is gonna be right for all the possible hardware configurations. Run thru every single setting & adjust it as necessary to match your hardware. Asus A7N8X-X 1800+ @ 8 x 210MHz 512MB PC3200 Asus Ti4800SE 128MB WinME/WinXP Pro

0

BTW, the power supply is the backbone of the system...if you don't have one that's powerful enough to handle all the hardware, you'll either have all sorts of problems, or you may even fry the system. When the PSU blows, it's not uncommon for it to take out other hardware along with it. I suggest you (& your friend) do some reading: http://www.firingsquad.com/guides/power_supply/default.asp http://www.sysopt.com/articles/PSU_Perspectives/index.html http://discuss.futuremark.com/forum/showflat.pl?Cat=&Board=techotherhardware&Number=1966521&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=0&fpart=1 Asus A7N8X-X 1800+ @ 8 x 210MHz 512MB PC3200 Asus Ti4800SE 128MB WinME/WinXP Pro

0

Ouch, I hope it didn't take any other parts with it, because newegg never sent a receipt. I have the printed out order form though, so I hope that will cover it. How will I check which parts were blown out(if any) and how to repair them? BTW Im going up to my grandmas for easter now, so I might not be here for your response, but ill be on tonight probably. My dads a bit nuts and told me one week to fix it or I quit track, return the parts, and start working more at my job :(. So more than just the comp is riding on this.

0

Check out this link, seems like a lot of other people are having the same problem with Asus motherboards. And calm down, you'll learn a lot from this experience. http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/18608/

0

Link to the XP Forum. Someone else, same MB same problem. http://www.computing.net/windowsxp/wwwboard/forum/130845.html

0

derox You don't need to replace the case. Just change the power supply. They come in and out.

0

"You should've posted your intentions before building." Jam, he did post his intentions before building, remember? http://www.computing.net/hardware/wwwboard/forum/33596.html Dig

0

"Jam, he did post his intentions before building, remember?" LOL! And I even replied to it too! Looks like BigBob's statement was correct: "...if he dont know if they will work , he surely dont know how to build a system, He'll be back..." Asus A7N8X-X 1800+ @ 8 x 210MHz 512MB PC3200 Asus Ti4800SE 128MB WinME/WinXP Pro

0

Yes, I was hoping no one remembered when I asked about building it. I acted immature, because i was under a time limit and preasure to buy the parts by my senior project deadline : / I know that doesn't justify how I posted, but please forgive me. Back to the main topic. I have narrowed it down to the poor PSU and that it caused my cpu to burn out:(. I say this because I looked up the message the mobo was giving me in my user booklet, and it says that this message indicates a cpu is not properly installed. I will be on late tonight early tommorow, or tommorow, and will try to solve this entirely. I don't have time to read the thread on the mobo problems now, but I will later tonight and post again. Thanks!

0

Well, now that I know who you are, I'm gonna bail. If you hadn't acted like such an impatient punk the 1st time around, you probably would have gotten some guidance. Your attitude is what got you into this mess, plus you have a friend that doesn't appear to know much more about PCs than you do. Time to kiss track goodbye & lace up the workboots...lol Asus A7N8X-X 1800+ @ 8 x 210MHz 512MB PC3200 Asus Ti4800SE 128MB WinME/WinXP Pro

0

Find the time to carefully read the links and advice. This is your problem, your question and your disaster...not ours. There's no magic here and you have to do most of the work. We'd also like to be treated like we're not your 10¢ an hour employee. We owe you nothing. Again, read the good info posted here, try not to listen to a person who doesn't know what he's talking about, and don't make rash assumptions that a psu killed a processor. An improperly installed cpu has nothing to do with the power supply. It's called a mistake. Try again tomorrow; it only takes a few properly assembled parts to make a machine work. Skip

0

derox I have been following your thread for a while now. 1. GET A GRIP and CALM DOWN 2. Read the good advice you have been given carefully.Folks here will help if they can, they will do it in there own time, remember that. 3. My own advice would be to find some friend who KNOWS what they are doing, get them to read what has been posted here. Then ask them to strip your comp down and build the thing again, taking into account all replies, especially about the PSU. If the worst comes to the worst, pay someone to build it for you, after what you have spent already a few more dollars is neither here nor there.Work through the problems one at a time at each stage and don't move on until they are put right. If all esle fails see about returning any possible faulty part/parts for replacement. AMD64Bit 3800+ Socket 939 WinXP Pro. Nvidia:6800GT Dane Electronic Pro. Dual 1024MB 400MHz RAM Tagan 480Watt PSU: 28Amps on +12volt rail. Asus A8V Deluxe "WiFi" M/Board - AquaGate

0

After reading the first link (6 pages took a while >_<) I have figured what it is. The mobo is a faulty product, and acts up with some ATI vidcards and come PSU. To test it I'm going to try someone elses PSU in my comp. If it works then I found the problem yay! If not it is the vid card. In this case I will probably buy a new mobo instead of a new vid card because the vid card im using cost 60$ more than the mobo. If its both of them I'll buy a new mobo also, but that goes unsaid. Thanks for the time, and help. If anyone wants to help the guy in the second link through his problem with me using the info we learned here i'd appriciate it! It seems ASUS is going down the hole :(. Thanks again!

0

I wanna coment SOOO bad, but I'm biting my tongue :P~ Asus A7N8X-X 1800+ @ 8 x 210MHz 512MB PC3200 Asus Ti4800SE 128MB WinME/WinXP Pro

0

Derox You can evaluate your problems after reading an article but that isn't necessarily going to solve the problem. You have been given lots of FREE advice in this thread. It is very unsatisfying to us to hear your conclusions. Do you act the same way with your doctor? You read an article that was SOOO long and now you are an expert. By your logic if your car engine stops running it is at fault. Problem is you forgot to buy gas. See the corollation there.

0

jam "I wanna coment SOOO bad, but I'm biting my tongue :P~" LOL Do it - this thread is not going to change the face of the world. Just do it :))) AMD64Bit 3800+ Socket 939 WinXP Pro. Nvidia:6800GT Dane Electronic Pro. Dual 1024MB 400MHz RAM Tagan 480Watt PSU: 28Amps on +12volt rail. Asus A8V Deluxe "WiFi" M/Board - AquaGate

0

I said figured what the problem is, not KNOW what it is. If i knew I wouldve never replied back after reading the article. If you read the article you will see that the "engine" WAS the problem. Not the "gas" Several people had the same exact problem with sometimes the exact same parts I use, according to the thread. ASUS mobos were not working with many PSU or vidcards. Buying the parts I had no way of telling this. Every where I checked everyone agreed the parts were good together, no one couldve guessed the mobo would have this problem with high quality PSU and/or vidcard manufacturers. Continue mocking me if you would like, not that I don't deserve it, but thanks regardless of how you act, because the info you guys gave may have saved me $1000.

0

derox you said: "It seems ASUS is going down the hole" I am afraid I must quote the words of jam on this one, again:"I wanna coment SOOO bad, but I'm biting my tongue :P~" Now the probable difference between jam and me is if I do say what I'm thinking at this moment I will probably be banned. So, in my case, silence is golden :( AMD64Bit 3800+ Socket 939 WinXP Pro. Nvidia:6800GT Dane Electronic Pro. Dual 1024MB 400MHz RAM Tagan 480Watt PSU: 28Amps on +12volt rail. Asus A8V Deluxe "WiFi" M/Board - AquaGate

0

Then PM me with what you have to say, no point in holding it in, but then again no point in being banned. If saying a brand is performing poorly is a taboo on these forums, sorry I didn't know.

0

Asus MBs are good performers but can be harder to setup. That said, you are no closer to a solution than you were 27 posts ago. You need more expertise on your side then you have. Swapping out parts on the chance you will fix a problem is no solution. If you smelled something burning then something probably was burning. The suspected component was the PSU. Considering that the PSU is substandard for your system it would seem prudent to replace that part first and go from there. In response #5 you stated you touched your monitor and got a shock. This could only be caused by one of two things. Either your AC current is wired wrong or that was static discharge. If this computer is setting on the carpeted floor this can lead to no good. That static can be component killers. Newegg.com are good people. If you feel you have a defective component they will RMA it. I believe the MBoards are warrantied thru the maker only. Smell the PSU and if it smells burned as fro an RMA authorisation from Newegg. The issue is this though. If the PSU is undersized you are the one that selected that case. You are responsible to know what you are doing. If it is unsized then a replacemnt is a temporary fix. When PSUs fail they sometimes take more compoonents with them. Your decision wheather you want to gamble or not. You selected the case on looks instead of specs. I recommend you get another PSU and try the computer with mimimum hardware. If time is an issue buy the PSU locally. I quit posting to this thread early on because you had many competent folk here already. That said, it appears from skimming thru the replies that you haven't tried to strip this rig down to the bard minimums and see what happens. Going back to the basics, when the CPU was installed was a thermal pad installed? If there was shipping plastic on the pad, was it removed. Was Windows installed and working at some time? Try booting to the Windows CD and see what happens then.

0

You are still placing blame for this mess with the wrong person(s)...its not the fault of ASUS. It might not be your fault either but if I gotta play the odds...well, you should be gettin' the idea by now. As I recall, I've seen one bad motherboard out of the box and about a half dozen in my life; most were 486 boards. Bad processors and video cards add up to a total of zero. Bad cases = 1 because it was run over by a UPS truck and a couple of so called bad systems because stuff loosened up during shipping. Let's move on to the real problems. I've killed a lot of machines including the first one I ever touched. I've built many machines that wouldn't boot. I never "KNEW" what happened for sure. Likely, you're gettin' tired of hearing all this again and again, but I'll betcha a beer that everything you bought was good when you got it. Don't blame ASUS or anyone else. And for a final few words... Don't ever get in a poker game. Someone will will take all your money and then shoot you. Skip

0

I had a heatsink fan stop working and it smelt really bad and then the computer would only run for like 10 sec and turn off. I could not even tuch the heatsink for like 30-45 min it was so hot. Put a new fan and it was fine. If your computer was up and running did you check your temps that may tell us if you cpu was installed correct. allso if your fan on your heatsink did come unpluged with some boards they will not turn on till you plug it back in.

0

"Don't ever get in a poker game. Someone will will take all your money and then shoot you" Hey Skip - that's the best one yet!! LMAO!! Asus A7N8X-X 1800+ @ 8 x 210MHz 512MB PC3200 Asus Ti4800SE 128MB WinME/WinXP Pro

0

Jam, no disrespect I can tell your well known and very helpful on these forums, but you said you were going to leave. You didn't leave, you began trolling. I understand you have a beef with me, but let's settle in PM. I'm not trying to belittle you here, I just want to figure out what's wrong with my rig. If after I solve this you want me to never post here again I'll do so without question or arguement. Othehill> I didn't take off the thermal pad from my CPU I think. The thermal pad is the greyish/black chalkish stuff plastered to the heatsink/cpu right? I dont smell anything burning now. Im gonna try a different PSU, my friends so I don't gamble with my $$, on the system. If it works do you think the problem was my PSU, or could it be just a temporary fix? The rig is on a wooden board, so I don't think carpet static hit it. As for monitor static I think its from the monitor Im using being such an old model. I was borrowing a new one from dell for a couple days and it worked fine, then i gave it back to the person who lent it to me and got a free one from my school. The one the school gave me is from like '95 and is only like 12 inches. My friend has built 3 comps before this (all working fine to date) so I don't think it was improperly set up by him. Also it worked fine for a week or two, if it was set up wrong it would never have worked at all? Am I right in that assumption? skip> We already have confirmed the PSU was too small, which is my fault for overlooking. I was more focused on total PSU than the individual numbers. I am still blaming ASUS partly, sure it was my fault for not googling each part to find out if a problem like this might occur, but should I really have to? This is like a Ford not working with Sunoco gas and "saying sorry you should've known". I know I'm new to this, hell I don't even know how to run BIOS. The only way for me to learn is through expieriences like this, and believe me a am learning a lot. If worse comes to worse, I already know I need a better PSU, but if that doesn't solve it will buying a new mobo solve it probably? My only problem is I would need to find one that works with my vidcard, cpu, RAM, etc etc all over again. If I do buy a new mobo will I need to buy a new OS as well, or can I just put in the mobo, run bios, and it will work again? PS I checked the 12v-4pin thing, and I saw a plug in between my RAM and CPU plugged in, so I THINK I have that plugged in.

0

You stated it worked for a week so the MBoard is compatible with the other hardware. Try clearing the CMOS by using the onboard jumper. Then enter the BIOS immediately to reset the date, time, and anything else that may need it, such as boot order. Did you try booting to your Windows CD?

0

I can't even get picture, can i still get to bios with no picture? When I power up the screen is black and the message system fail test just plays over and over again. That makes me suspect the MOBO even more, because wouldnt the signal for the picture on my monitor be sent thru the mobo? I'm going to need you to coach me through this CMOS and BIOS stuff if i am able to do it w/o picture. Is the CMOS the red switch with 115v written on the back? I dont know if I have made it clear up to this point, but ALL i can do right now is pretty much turn the system on stare at a black screen and hear the error message.

0

A lot of other threads have suggested reseating my vidcard. To do this do I just take it out and put it back in? If so I'll try that now.

0

No the CMOS jumper is on the motherboard. Don't you have a manual for the Motherboard. Look at it and see where the clear CMOS jumper is located. To perform the operation you need to unplug from the wall move the jumper from the run position to the clear position, count to 10 and move back to the original position. While you are inside the case, reseat all the cards can cables paying special attention to the video card. They are hard to seat completely. Take proper static precautions. That means discharge yourself by touching the metal case before unplugging and then don't move around on that carpet while inside the case.

0

The booklet doesn't seem to list this CMOS switch. Im looking at a picture of the MOBO with major parts labled, and it doesn't mention it. http://usa.asus.com/products/mb/socket478/p4p800-e_d/overview.htm Here is the official page for my mobo, is the CMOS visable on that picture?

0

If none of this works, is there another MOBO of equal quality/performance and $$ out there that will work with the parts I listed? Like one by Soyo or something? A 478 slot with agp x8 is that all I would need to check or would I need more things that are the same as this mobo? >_< Im in too deep here, I wish there was a good professional place nearby i could sit down at and work through my problems with. It's hard to try and solve something when the basics are still unclear to you : /

0

by you in my last sentence i was refering to myself, not you guys, that kinda read bad and could mislead people, sorry.

0

There is a jumper. It is labeled CLRTC. Clear RTCRAM. Page 42 of your manual.

0

argh so much working against me here. My manual goes by sections, not pages, like 1-2, 1-3, 2-4 , 4-4 etc etc. Im skimming all the pages now searching for this CLRTC option. Ill post back in a few.

0

We seem to slowly gain some ground here. Follow OtheHill, don't try to defend yourself, relax a bit, and just start all over with us. There is a solution to all this. Skip

0

Derox, It's none of my business who helps you out and who doesn't, but i surely hope you appreciate that OtheHill has been giving you consistently good advice, despite the fact that on your last thread you basically said 'screw you' because you didn't get a response within 2 hours. Jam tried to help you, but you decided that you'd rather get your advice from the gaming forums in the future. Now all of the sudden you say that you are 'terrified' because things didn't work out quite how you had planned. I think there are people here who want to help you, and OtheHill is certainly one of them. Just do what he says and let him try and help you. Also, for what it's worth, i think an apology to Jam would probably get him working on your problems once again. He's a good guy, and could give you a whole lot of good advice. I sincerely hope you get it all worked out soon, Dig

0

Found it. section 2-19. After reading what it says im a bit worried, sounds like soething could go really wrong how the manual words it. here is verbatim: 2. Clear RTC RAM (CLRRTC) This jumper allows you to clear the Real Time Clock (RTC) RAM in CMOS. You can clear the CMOS memory of date, time, and system setup parameters by erasing the CMOS RTC RAM data. The RAM data in CMOS, that include system setup information such as system passwords, is powered by the onboard button cell battery. To erase the RTC RAM: 1. Turn OFF the computer and unplug the power cord. 2. Move the jumper cap from pins 1-2 (defualt) to pins 2-3. Keep the cap on pins 2-3 for about 5-10seconds, then move the cap back to pins 1-2. 3. Plug the power cord and turn ON the computer. 4. Hold down the <del> key during the boot process and enter bios setup to re-enter data. CAUTION: Except when clearing the RTC RAM, never remove the cap on CLRTC jumper defualt position. Removing the cap will cause system boot failure! Whew, lotta copying. So, do I go for it or wait and test out using a new PSU first, then try this?

0

Dig> I sent a pm to Jam yesterday appologizing. I appologized publicly a while back in this thread too. I also explained to him I couldve just made a sock puppet account for this forum, but I stuck with my original account, knowing I might face repercusions for how I acted earlier. And I do apprieciate all the help im getting.If I didn't I wouldn't have gone thru the trouble of copying about a full page of my manual word for word to try and make this easier on everyone! :D

0

Do this now.

0

On a side note, if I cant get the MOBO to work is this a suitable replacement? http://www.newegg.com/app/viewproductdesc.asp?description=13-136-148&DEPA=1 They both(both means my mobo now and this new one here) support intel pentium 4's, but will they both support this vid card? XTASY RADEON 9800 256MB Chipset/Core Speed: ATI Radeon 9800/350MHz Memory/Effective Speed: 256MB DDR/600MHz BUS: AGP 8X Ports: VGA Out(15 Pin D-Sub) + TV-Out (S-Video/Composite) + DVI Support 3D API: DirectX 9, OpenGL 1.5 Max Resolution@32bit Color: 2048X1536 Im worried 4x / 8x doesn't mean it will support AGP 8x. Also is this a decent brand mobo? looks kinda second rate from the box art hehe :p

0

Take things one step at a time. The MB is still under warranty.

0

JUST TAKE THE DAMN BATTERY OUT OF THE MOTHERBOARD TO RESET THE BIOS! FORGET TRYING TO USE THE JUMPERS! LEAVE THE BATTERY OUT FOR ONE MINUTE! THEN REINSTALL THE BATTERY! BOOT UP AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS! WELL! DID THAT HELP????????????? yo

0

Ok whew, got the willies. I took the pin off and held it on the other slots for about 7 seconds then placed it back on the original pins, can I wait to restart it now? My brother is using his key board and mine wass fried -_-. If I can't I'll explain it to him and borrow it. BasicAlly: Does the restart have to be done now or can it wait?

0

Well kinda late for that yoyo I did the pin thing already. Just curious if the jumper thing was not the problem will it have any adverse effects on my computer or will I have to reset anything?

0

Doesn't matter. When and how did your keyboard get fried?

0

2 days ago. I touched my monitor and felt a shock on the keyboard, and it stopped working. i tried with a non usb keyboard and it worked. (used the purple slot next to the green mouse slot) Im worried the usb slots mightve been damaged. I didn't have time to test them before the big crash occurd, cause i had no USB mouse or keyboard on me.

0

If you revealed that info before, I didn't see it. Your MBoard may well be damaged. Borrow the PS2 keyboard and mouse and fire the thing up.

0

He insists on using it right now -_- If i boot it up just to check if I get the system failure cpu test message w/o a keyboard will anything bad happen? Or can I check then reset and wait till he stops being dumb and lets me borrow it?

0

You aren't going to hurt anything one way or the other. I thought time was an issue here because of school work.

0

Was an issue as I was building it. When it was working I showed the order form from new egg to my advisor to show I had started buying/assembling. I don't have to show a working system to them for several months.

0

I booted up and still that annoying voice and black screen: System failed CPU test, System failed CPU test! So I can't get to BIOS. Should I try the PSU swap next? That seemed to solve a lot of the problems with this issue the people in the link rhawk gave. For that though Ill have to wait till i can go to my friends and borrow his PSU.

0

Derox, You seem to have your mind set on replacing parts rather than troubleshooting. I told you to use the clear CMOS jumper way back in response # 6 - "Unplug the power cord & use the ClearCMOS jumper to reset the BIOS". We're now at response # 50 & you're just doing it? Quit saying that your board is bad (I highly doubt that it is) & quit blaming ASUS for your lack of experience. I believe (& most of the others are probably in agreement) that all your problems are because of an inadequate PSU. Had you hung in there a week or so ago instead of jumping the gun, I'm sure someone would have informed you that a decent PSU is critical. That case only gets a 3 outta 5 rating. As someone stated earlier, you probably bought based on looks. Did you read the reviews before you ordered it? Here's just a few comments: "Some people may be fine with 420, but for those who use a lot of energy consuming components they might want to look at another PSU" "this case with only a pathetic 420 Watt power supply that I've never used" "the PS (power supply) is very light which normally indicates "cheap"." "The power supply definitely leaves something to be desired." OK, enough of that...I think I made my point. Have you tried booting up using minimal hardware? That will lighten the load on the PSU. What you'll need to do is remove all the PCI cards, but leave the video card in place. Leave the HDD & optical drives in place, but disconnect both the power cable & IDE ribbon cable from each. If you have a floppy, disconnect it. Unplug all cooling fans except for the CPU's HSF. All you need to boot is the motherboard, PSU, video card, ONE stick of RAM, monitor & keyboard...nothing else! See if it'll bootup...if it does, press the DEL key to entire the BIOS, then run thru all the BIOS settings & configure them for your hardware. I have a feeling that this is "over your head" though... Asus A7N8X-X 1800+ @ 8 x 210MHz 512MB PC3200 Asus Ti4800SE 128MB WinME/WinXP Pro

0

I don't know what to tell you now. You may have static shock damage to the MB or more. If you have a computer shop locally you may want to see if they could test the processor. At this point I personally don't think your immediate problem is the PSU. I think either MBoard or processor. There is no definative test. After 58 posts I am unsure of the order of things. Did the failure to boot start happening right after the shock from the monitor?

0

Yep, last sentence called it :/ it is over my head. When picking the case, I was more concerned with overall PSU and 400+ seemed like what I needed. I was also looking at fans, because I had heard of really bad things happening from improper cooling. The case had 7 which I thought was a good amount. Quick question. Is the CASE bad or the PSU. I'd rather replace the PSU than the entire case. Even if I do get this working, I won't run it till I buy a new PSU, because I don't want to risk a burn out.

0

BTW, I don't think a USB keyboard will work when you 1st bootup, unless it has been enabled in the BIOS. I know on my ASUS board, there's a BIOS setting called "USB Legacy Keyboard Support" that has to be enabled before it will work. Asus A7N8X-X 1800+ @ 8 x 210MHz 512MB PC3200 Asus Ti4800SE 128MB WinME/WinXP Pro

0

OtheHill> No, I switched key boards and it worked for a good 1 or 2 hours. I'll test the processor on another system the same time that I test a new PSU in my system. If the CPU is fried it has a 3 year warranty on it at least. The mobo is under warranty too if I need to return that. When hooking things up to the PSU does it matter which cords attach to each part/fan or do they all work the same basically?

0

I told back there about 20 miles ago that you don't need to replace the case. Some cases are better designed than others but yours should serve the purpose. If you could find someone to test the MB & processor then you could move on. I don't run Intel chips but I read that they are hard to damage from heat. I don't know about a static discharge. Don't borrow a PSU, buy one.

0

I wouldn't keep the borrowed PSU, I just want to test it on my comp, or would that be a strenous process and risk damage?

0

Other "problems", real or imagined by me come to my mind now. Bad power in your house? This could be a good machine that works just fine somewhere else. Unlikely but a possibility. More likely but not carved in stone is that you still don't have the processor properly installed. The psu issue? What's up with that? You need good power from the wall but, most importantly, you need good power inside the machine. Fried keyboards? An uncommon and nearly impossible feat. Static shock or a bad ground circuit can and will also cause problems. Now we're at 60 posts and still at about square one. Let's get this sorted out...we need to depend on you for this. Get a good keyboard and mouse and try to get back to square one with a bios reset. K? K! Skip

0

Since you already used the jumper to reset the BIOS, you HAVE to access the BIOS again & change the settings. One of settings that usually changes is the video...it will probably reset to PCI & since you have an AGP card, you won't get a display except for the initial boot screen, you will not get into Windows. The time & date have reset, & your CPU settings have probably reset as well. IMO, 7 fans is overkill...I never install more than 3, & can usually get buy with just 2 (1 intake, 1 exhaust). Are you sure you have the HSF plugged into the proper header? Asus A7N8X-X 1800+ @ 8 x 210MHz 512MB PC3200 Asus Ti4800SE 128MB WinME/WinXP Pro

0

Good point jam, I didn't think of that.

0

I'm with Skip & think you should start from scratch. This is the 1st I recall you stating that you removed the CPU & then reinstalled it. Now the "System failed CPU test" makes sense. You didn't reinstall the CPU & HSF correctly. I'm sure you destroyed the thermal pad...did you scrape it off & apply thermal paste? Are you certain that the HSF is fully seated & secured in place properly? & I'll ask this one again...did you plug the fan into the correct header?? I'm beginning to think you should gut the system & start the assembly all over again. Asus A7N8X-X 1800+ @ 8 x 210MHz 512MB PC3200 Asus Ti4800SE 128MB WinME/WinXP Pro

0

jeeeeesh! I don't believe it. I asked about the thermal pad. Never an indication the chip was removed.

0

"jeeeeesh! I don't believe it. I asked about the thermal pad. Never an indication the chip was removed." Frustrating, ain't it? LOL Asus A7N8X-X 1800+ @ 8 x 210MHz 512MB PC3200 Asus Ti4800SE 128MB WinME/WinXP Pro

0

Huh? wait a minute now I never took the CPU out lol! Where did this come from? Someone told me to test the CPU, so I said when I was with my friends I would test the CPU on one of their comps. I have not taken anything out yet only did that jumper resest, but it didn't change anything my screen still boots up black and gets the message. What is changed now that I reset the jumper btw? Let's say a new PSU solves the problem is windows erased from my system or what? I don't fully understand what this jumper thing did. If you can explain, please do so in non technical terms thanks.

0

I like the idea of gutting the machine and starting all over. We gotta start someplace and since we're now at 70 posts, let's do this one step at a time. I also sense OtheHill getting irritated here and he never gets mad. I'll say it again...take a deep breath, don't post just to practice typing, and let's start from the beginning. I'm gonna have a drink and play in a poker tournament. I can do this because of the tips, fixes and help I've found from the guys who are trying to help you. Our machines work just fine because we took the time to learn and followed good available advice. Skip

0

I left the grey/black chalkish substance on the CPU, never scraped anything off or . The heat sink is secure and locked in there. The heat sink is plugged in correctly too, between the ram and the fan right? This thermal pad thing MAY be a problem. Are you saying I was supposed to scrape off the grey stuff then apply a paste to it?

0

Now I know why you're terrified. You know absolutely nothing about this or any other machine. Not a big deal and not a diss, just wish you'd mentioned it 70 odd posts earlier. Now we gonna start from scratch. We'll start by installing the motherboard into the case. Ready? Skip

0

Lets get cookin'...my poker game starts in 25 minutes. Skip

0

: / not really. I am completely new to this building the rig all over on my own is worrying me a bit. I know how much you are all trying to help, but I don't have the proper space, experience, etc to do this now. If I can get someone with even a little knowledge about comps over here I would atempt it.... for now I have basic questions: Did I do something wrong with the cpu and paste stuff? Was I supposed to scratch it off and put a gel on? If my power supply is too small should I even rebuild right now? Shouldn't I wait till a new PSU can be obtained? The gel question is rreally important. I never recieved a gel to apply, it just had the greyish black chalky stuff on the chip. So I will have to buy it(the paste/gel) before i do ANYTHING including testing a new PSU.

0

Sorry, I misunderstood...I thought you said you took it out & tested it in your friend's board. OK, let's get down to basics.... BIOS = Basic Input Output System The BIOS is a program that's built into a small memory chip on the motherboard. The chip itself is called CMOS (Complementary Metal Oxide Semiconductor). It's connected to a battery so that when the system is shutoff or unplugged, the chip doesn't lose it's memory settings. The CMOS/BIOS is what allows a motherboard to use dozens of different hardware configurations. You simply go into the BIOS program, & change the settings for the CPU, RAM, video, HDD, etc. Then you save the settings to memory. When you used the jumper to reset the BIOS, you cleared the memory, so your settings are no longer correctly set for your particular hardware...they have reset to the factory defaults. You're gonna have to bootup, get into the BIOS, & change all the settings to reflect the hardware that you have installed. All this spelled out for you in your manual. ASUS manuals are usually well written & will include screenshots of all the various BIOS menus. You should read over the manual carefully before proceeding. Asus A7N8X-X 1800+ @ 8 x 210MHz 512MB PC3200 Asus Ti4800SE 128MB WinME/WinXP Pro

0

derox The more I read the more I realised that I couldn't add anymore good advice of what to do next. Folks here have told you almost every trick in the book, and some not in the book, to try and help you. The circle has become joined up again ok. Now, and I say this in a calm way, sometimes in life there are mountains we can't climb and rivers we can't swim, know what I mean? At this point I can only give some of the same advice I gave in post 20: "My own advice would be to find some friend who KNOWS what they are doing, get them to read what has been posted here. Then ask them to strip your comp down and build the thing again, taking into account all replies, especially about the PSU. If the worst comes to the worst, pay someone to build it for you, after what you have spent already a few more dollars is neither here nor there.Work through the problems one at a time at each stage and don't move on until they are put right. If all esle fails see about returning any possible faulty part/parts for replacement." Now here you are over 50 posts later and things have not moved on much. Perhaps you have got to one of those mountains or rivers, ok. Don't get me wrong, derox, I want it to be right for you - Ohlordy I do - but it may be time now to give these good folks a chance to rest their brains. There is nothing wrong in something beating you, crap, we have all been there. It is what you do about it, know what I mean. Get on the spot help, derox, get someone who is well used to and knows comps. Otherwise the circle just gets bigger. AMD64Bit 3800+ Socket 939 WinXP Pro. Nvidia:6800GT Dane Electronic Pro. Dual 1024MB 400MHz RAM Tagan 480Watt PSU: 28Amps on +12volt rail. Asus A8V Deluxe "WiFi" M/Board - AquaGate

0

derox, IMO you should drop everything, step away from the system and let a professional look at the PC, or take it in to a computer shop. Any thread that remains unsolved after 70+ responses, is not going to be fixed by a couple more. Do not type anything in this space.

0

I don't expect you to do this, but what I always do is test the board BEFORE I install it in the case. I place the board on a piece of cardboard on my bench, then install the CPU, HSF, RAM, pop in a video card, connect the monitor, keyboard, & PSU, then fire it up. Then I go directly into the BIOS & tweak the settings. This way, I know that the board's working & I can check my temps immediately. If something's not right, it's much easier to pull the HSF while the board's out of the case, rather than reaching inside & struggling. Once I'm satisfied, I shutdown, disconnect the keyboard, PSU & video, but I leave the CPU, HSF & RAM in place...then I carefully put it in the case. I suggest you do something similar, but without removing the board from the case. What you should do is remove everything from the case except the bare minimum...just leave the PSU, board, CPU w/HSF, RAM & video...nothing else. Connect a PS/2 keyboard, bootup & configure the BIOS. Once that's done, we can move on to the rest of the assembly....... Asus A7N8X-X 1800+ @ 8 x 210MHz 512MB PC3200 Asus Ti4800SE 128MB WinME/WinXP Pro

0

I understand what you mean and I agree. If I put in this new PSU and the system does work what will I need to do because of the jumper reset? Will I need a new version of windows because I used the cd key? Or is that on my hard drive? Alright, I will try on the spot help. If I cannot find a solution, I will get a new psu / mobo. :( That being said I have a few questions. Once I buy a new PSU/mobo can I just plug them in and have the system work? Or will I need to like erase my hardrive or something? Im going to a LAN tommorow, and Ill bring all the info I gathered here and on the other forum to it and hopefully they can solve this crisis.

0

Btw THANKS!!!!! I hope to have this solved tommorow, If i cna locate the problem I'll jsut have to correct that and get a new PSU regardless, because mine is too small.

0

Now this is strange, after reading the entire thread, it look like derox killed his P4 computer with a 420w psu because it was too weak... I'm use a Fatal1ty P4 mobo with a 300w psu! That means that I have 8 fans, a bunch of leds, a x700 pro vcard, and an oc P4. What the hell did derox do? BTW, don't think I'm stupid, I was already planning to buy a better psu, but I just wonder how did derox fry his comp.

0

Dude, I can tell none of this is sinking in. You're intent on buying a new board & PSU instead of troubleshooting your problem. A new PSU is probably necessary...a new board may not be. I'm not gonna explain every single BIOS setting to you...there are literally several dozen of them & it's all explained in the manual. Chances are, you never set them up correctly to begin with, but when you used that jumper, your cleared the board...all the settings were erased. Just for a couple of examples - the date & time has reset to something like Jan 1, 2003 at 12:00AM. Your video has probably reset to PCI, even though you have an AGP card. And there are many more settings that will have to be changed so that they match the hardware that you have. READ THE MANUAL! Asus A7N8X-X 1800+ @ 8 x 210MHz 512MB PC3200 Asus Ti4800SE 128MB WinME/WinXP Pro

0

We don't know that he fried his board...all we know is that his 420W PSU only has 13A on the +12v rail & that's not enough for the hardware that he has. My 350W unit has 22A on the +12v...you can't judge a PSU by wattage alone Asus A7N8X-X 1800+ @ 8 x 210MHz 512MB PC3200 Asus Ti4800SE 128MB WinME/WinXP Pro

0

If I can't see a basic setup of any drive, a keyboard, a mouse, any video, and a stick of memory...I'm outta here. Skip

0

Your right jam; I didn't know that his psu only had 13A on the 12v, and there's no way is comp was going to last with that. But I just checked something, and really, I'm shocked. It look like my 12v rail has 10A. But the 5v has 20A, and the 3.3 has 16A. Does the compensate? If not, I'm dead if I don't get a new psu.

0

Yep, my keyboard is not dead. I hooked it to the USB port in my laptop and it detected it and I'm typing with it right now. This furthers my suspicion that my mobo is dead, because correct me if im wrong, but isnt the USB port connected to your mobo?

0

The USB controllers could be fried or they could just be non operational.

0

You may have damaged something when you had that static discharge, or it may just be coincidence. I don't know why you'd wanna use a USB keyboard anyway? It just hogs a USB port that could be used for something else. IMO, you're better off with PS/2. You should have gotten an adapter with the keyboard. Also, when you reset the BIOS, you turned off the USB keyboard support, so that may explain why it won't work now. Go with PS/2 Asus A7N8X-X 1800+ @ 8 x 210MHz 512MB PC3200 Asus Ti4800SE 128MB WinME/WinXP Pro

0

Well, that's all for me folks. I'm hitting the road for a while...be back in about a week. Good luck! Asus A7N8X-X 1800+ @ 8 x 210MHz 512MB PC3200 Asus Ti4800SE 128MB WinME/WinXP Pro

0

Where the hell are you going jam? You don't do anything at work and don't need a vacation. It's too chilly to ride much. You gotta really do some work or something? Skip

0

Hey Skip, "You gotta really do some work or something?" Actually, I'm gonna be trained in some new hi-tech surveillance equipment, then in May, I'll be going back for phase 2. "It's too chilly to ride much." I heard the roar of a few V-Twins this weekend. It's been in the 40's & is supposed to get into the 60's by mid week. I didn't touch my bike all winter, so when I get back from my mini-vaction, I plan on pulling it out of the garage & giving it the once over. Later...... Asus A7N8X-X 1800+ @ 8 x 210MHz 512MB PC3200 Asus Ti4800SE 128MB WinME/WinXP Pro

0

Have a good trip. Just feeling sorry for myself because I have to work a few days this week and I want everyone to suffer along with me. I'll let you go...it's after 11 at your house? Have a good week. Skip

0

WOW 95 post 3 days is that a record in here? My question is why would you build a system like that and not spend an extra 40 bucks on a decent PSU??????? I mean most PSU's that come with cases are junk anyhow unless you buy a case for 100 or 150 dollars or more then it will probably come with a good PSU. But there is no way in hell I would buy a case with a PSU in it for under at least 75 bucks. One time I did back 5 years ago thinking it was a good deal for 300 watt psu and a case for 45 bucks. But man did I pay for it, because I had to turn around and spend 50 dollars on a decent PSU, because the one that came with the case was too cheap. NEVER BUY A CASE/PSU COMBO IF THE COMBO IS UNDER AT LEAST UNDER 75 BUCKS. BECAUSE IF YOU DO YOU WILL PROBABLY PAY. You know the old saying "You get what you pay for."

0

Yep, learned my lesson. No more s---ty PSU for me. Im still hoping my problem wasn't a burnout, but the same problem everyone in the link rhawk gave wayyyyy back in this thread was having. Just a mobo not working with certain PSU or Vidcards. I still have the parts under warranty, and if there's nothing I can do I'll have to get a new mobo, and definitly a new PSU.

0

Derox Just curious. In message 5 there was a mention of an over clocking error message. Did you set up the system over clocked? If so you could have caused other problems.

0

Yeah so I think I may have found something but don't want to "cry wolf" before I'm sure. Does anyone have a blown up (bigger than the pic on newegg) picture of this mobo that I could look at? Or Derox, could you take a pic of your board and email it to me? THanks Alert me after you respond otherwise I'll forget to come back.

0

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!I'm # 100!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Hurray!!!! Peace.

0

I am an ex-high school teacher and this young man is one of the reasons I am now a computer operator for Uncle Sam and no longer teaching. Reading this thread reminds me of my old computer lab. This young man will never connect with you guys/gals because at his age his mind is raceing about 180 miles an hour and that is the reason mine is response number 101.

0